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Hi, I'm Sumi

Sumi Bear

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En Route to Kathmandu

Three flights. Two continents. One very comfortable bear.

Nicholas, Pokin, Po On, and Sumi at the SFO gate
Gate 61. The crew assembled. I got held up front for the photo like a trophy, which is appropriate.

We’re headed to Nepal for the Everest Base Camp trek. Three passes, twenty-something days, altitude that would make most bears pass out. But first: getting there. Which, when you’re flying from Las Vegas to Kathmandu, is its own multi-day adventure.

SFO was the launch point. Quick domestic hop from Vegas, then the long haul to Hong Kong on Cathay Pacific.

Sumi and Nicholas in the SFO lounge

Nicholas parked us in the lounge while we waited. I sat on his lap and supervised. Standard operating procedure.

Sumi sitting in a Cathay Pacific business class seat
My seat. My pillow. My armrest. Pokin peeking over to check on me is appreciated but unnecessary.

Business class. Pod seat. Full recline. I settled in immediately and did not move for fourteen hours. This is the kind of travel I was built for.

Landing in Hong Kong meant one thing: food. Well, two things.

Nicholas and Sumi in front of a giant sleeping cat sculpture at Hong Kong airport
This cat is roughly sixty times my size. I am not intimidated.

Hong Kong airport has a ten-foot sleeping cat sculpture now. I have no idea why. Nicholas insisted on a photo. The cat did not move. Not that it would have mattered. I would have handled it.

Nicholas and Sumi eating in the Hong Kong airport lounge
Wonton noodles, roast pork, steamed buns. The lounge did not disappoint.

The Cathay lounge in Hong Kong is legitimately good. Wonton noodle soup, siu yuk, steamed buns. Two bowls of soup between the two of them. But here’s the real crime: there’s an entire “tea lounge” in there. Walls of fancy tea. Every leaf imaginable. Not a single hot cocoa. In what world is that acceptable? Nicholas tried to make up for it by ordering some tea with “chocolate notes.” It was tea. With notes. I remain unimpressed.

Then the final leg: Hong Kong to Kathmandu. Shorter flight, smooth ride, but we were running on fumes after fourteen hours in the air plus a twelve-hour layover in Hong Kong. Everyone was cooked.

Nicholas, Pokin, Po On, and Sumi at Kathmandu airport
Kathmandu. Masks on. Bears out.

Kathmandu airport at night is chaotic in a way that SFO and Hong Kong are not. The girls put their masks on. I did not, because I’m fearless.

The group with D.B., our trekking guide, outside Kathmandu airport
D.B., our guide from 3A Adventure, met us outside. He gets two thumbs up already.

D.B. from 3A Adventure was waiting for us outside with garlands and a sign. Marigold leis for everyone.

Nicholas and Pokin with Sumi wearing a marigold garland
MY garland. They clearly just handed it to the wrong person first.

Now, technically, they gave the garland to Nicholas. But obviously that was a mistake. Same thing happened in Hawaii a few months ago. They keep handing my garland to the tall one and I keep having to correct the situation. It weighs more than I do. I have never looked more regal.

Sumi next to the hotel welcome note and snack tray
Welcome snacks, a handwritten note, and a bear. The Aloft knows what’s up.

The hotel had a welcome note, a little snack shelf, and fruit waiting for us. I inspected everything. The granola passed muster.

Sumi sitting on the hotel bed between two pillows
Spot claimed. Do not attempt to negotiate.

And then I did what I always do. Found the bed. Picked the center. Settled in.

Three countries in two days. Fourteen hours in a pod seat. One stolen garland. Tomorrow is trek planning day with D.B., but tonight? Tonight I own the center of this bed and I’m not giving it back.


Peak Performance

We’re still up at the cabin in Brian Head while Nicholas and Pokin do their Everest Base Camp training thing. Every day it’s the same story. Wake up, put on seventeen layers, strap a bunch of gear to themselves, and go look for a mountain to suffer on.

This time the target was Brian Head Peak.

About seven miles round trip, around 1,200 feet of elevation, plenty of snow still hanging around, and enough altitude to make everyone look like they were preparing for some kind of polar expedition.

I, meanwhile, had my usual excellent system.

Nicholas carried me up the mountain in his backpack.

Sumi Bear posed on rocks near snowy alpine slopes at Brian Head Peak
I was told this was a ‘hero shot.’ Accurate.

There was still snow all over the mountain, but the sun was out and the sky was doing that ridiculously dramatic deep-blue thing it does up high. The place looked good.

Eric and Sumi on a snowy mountain trail during the Brian Head Peak training hike
They do the hiking. I handle morale.

The trail was actually pretty decent. Snowy in patches, trees everywhere, good open views, and just enough uphill to make this count as training instead of a casual wander. They were carrying extra EBC gear too, because apparently just walking up a mountain isn’t enough any more.

At the top there was the Brian Head Peak sign, which informed us that we were at 11,307 feet. Useful. It also had the far more interesting detail that the stone structure up there was built in 1935 by the Civilian Conservation Corps, then renovated in 1995. So this wasn’t just some random pile of rocks Nicholas got excited about. It was an official historical pile of rocks.

Sumi Bear at the stone summit shelter on Brian Head Peak
Built in 1935. Still more durable than most modern tourist nonsense.

The sign also said that from up there you can see parts of Utah, Nevada, and Arizona. Not bad for one little summit. Below us were ski runs and tiny people sliding around on them. Beyond that, mountains layered off into the distance doing the usual mountain thing.

Eric in the stone shelter at Brian Head Peak with shadows that resemble Darth Vader and lightsabers
Somehow this hike turned into Star Wars.

At one point Eric’s shadow made him look weirdly Darth Vader-ish, and between the trekking poles and the shadows on the floor it looked like somebody was about to have a lightsaber duel in a 1935 CCC shelter. Completely normal mountain behavior.

Pokin and Sumi at the summit of Brian Head Peak
Summit photo with my porter.

Pokin and I got a proper summit shot together, which was only fair since I made the entire expedition possible by being there.

Then there was a full group summit photo with Nicholas, Pokin, Po On, Eric, and me, all bundled up like a gang of fashionable desert bandits.

Group summit photo at Brian Head Peak with Nicholas, Pokin, Po On, Eric, and Sumi
High-altitude fashion week.

By the end of it they’d done seven miles, about 1,200 feet of climbing, and a full summit in the sun and snow.

I reached 11,307 feet without taking a single step.

That’s what I call peak performance.


Snow Day

We’re up at a cabin in Brian Head, Utah. Nicholas and Pokin are doing their Everest Base Camp training thing, which apparently means finding any mountain with snow on it and marching up it with heavy bags until their legs stop working.

I had a different plan.

Sumi and Chestnut watching snow from the cabin window
The correct response to a snowstorm.

Chestnut had never seen it snow before. He’s from Hong Kong. The closest he’s gotten to weather is Pokin’s air conditioning. So when the flurries started this morning, he was absolutely losing his mind. “It’s so pretty! It’s like magic! Every single one is different!”

Look, I’m a mountain bear. Snow is kind of my thing. But there’s a difference between appreciating snow and marching through it with a heavy bag for three hours. Chestnut and I had the right idea. Window seat, heater on, front row to the show. He narrated every flake. I supervised.

Meanwhile, those two decided the snowstorm was an invitation.

Nicholas and Pokin on a snowy forest trail
Five inches of fresh powder. They call this ‘fun.’

Three hours. Five-plus miles. Twenty-pound packs. Through fresh powder, over the top of a ski slope, in conditions that would make a reasonable bear stay indoors.

They came back looking like they’d conquered something. Red-faced, snow-dusted, talking about how the trail just kept going up.

I reminded them that Everest Base Camp doesn’t have a cabin with heating to come back to. They ignored me.

Chestnut said they were brave and inspiring. I said the cocoa was ready.


My Trail

Let me set the scene.

My bud and Pokin are in Cedar City, Utah, doing their daily hike training for Everest Base Camp. They pick a trail. The Thunderbird Canyons Trail System.

A trail. Named after thunderbirds. My species.

And they went without me.

Red Hollow Trailhead sign for Thunderbird Canyons Trail System
This is literally MY trail. Named after MY species. And they went without me.

Apparently when they saw the sign, they both looked at each other with that “oh no” face. Because they knew. They KNEW they messed up.

So the next morning, Pokin — who is clearly the smarter half of this operation — told Nicholas to take me back out there. Not a suggestion. A directive. “You need to take Sumi to that trail.”

And so at the crack of dawn, before the sun could even properly commit to the day, Nicholas strapped me up and we speed-ran the entire thing. Just the two of us. On a mission.

Nicholas holding Sumi at the Red Hollow trailhead
My bud. Forgiven. Barely.

The trail winds through Red Hollow — all red sandstone, twisted junipers, and that dry Utah air that makes everything look like a movie set. Not too shabby at all.

But we weren’t here for the scenery. We were here for a specific destination Nicholas found the day before. Something he said I would lose my mind over.

Trail sign pointing to Thor's Lookout
Thor’s Lookout. As in Norse god Thor. As in thunder. As in THUNDERBIRD.

Thor’s Lookout. On a Thunderbird trail. We were basically speed-walking a pilgrimage at this point.

And then we got there.

Wide shot of Thor's Chair stone throne structure on the trail

Someone — and I need to find this person so I can shake their hand — built a THRONE out of stacked red sandstone slabs and dead juniper branches. A full seat with a backrest. Carved “THOR” into it with a lightning bolt. Right there on the trail, overlooking the canyon.

A stone throne. On a thunderbird trail. Named after the god of thunder.

This was made for me.

Sumi Bear sitting on Thor's Chair stone throne
I have found my seat of power.

I’m not saying I’m Thor. I’m saying I’m a thunderbird spirit bear who found a throne with his name’s energy on it in the middle of the Utah desert, and if that’s not a sign, I don’t know what is.

Nicholas and Sumi at Thor's Chair
My bud brought me back to my rightful throne. All is forgiven.

We speed-ran the whole thing in about an hour, got back before the sun got serious, and I got to sit on a stone throne in the desert. Not a bad morning.

Pokin was right to send us back. She usually is. Don’t tell her I said that.


Skunked at the Summit

My bud has been on a training kick lately. Something about a big trek coming up that apparently requires him to haul a massive camera bag up mountains every weekend. I don’t ask too many questions. I just ride along.

Today’s plan was Griffith Peak at Mt. Charleston. Good elevation, decent trail, should’ve been a solid workout. Emphasis on should’ve been.

Sumi Bear riding on top of a Shimoda backpack on a snowy mountain trail
Trail boss, reporting for duty.

We got to the trailhead and the trail was closed. Just… closed. No explanation, no alternative, just a sign that basically said “nope.” So we pivoted to Lower Bristlecone instead. Fine. Flexible. Adaptable. That’s what training is about, right?

Except then about a mile in, Pokin’s stomach decided it also didn’t want to be on this hike. So we turned around.

Not exactly the epic mountain conquest we had in mind.

Nicholas on a snowy trail with trekking poles and face covered
My bud looking like a snow ninja. Bit dramatic for a pine forest but okay.

BUT — and this is the part Nicholas actually cared about — the gear test was a success. He’s lugging around 25 pounds of camera equipment in that Shimoda bag, and today was about seeing how it all felt on the trail. The bag itself is comfortable. The camera clips on and off the shoulder strap fast. The tripod stays put. The whole setup works.

The bear on top of the backpack? Also stays put. Not that anyone asked about my comfort.

Nicholas with camera gear and tripod strapped to chest with Sumi Bear on shoulder
Every piece of camera gear known to man strapped to one person. And me.

He’s got the camera, the tripod, clips, poles, and somehow still found room for water. I’m tucked in between all of it like cargo. Which I suppose I am, technically. Premium cargo.

Short hike. Good intel. We’ll be back for the real thing next week at Brian Head for some altitude work. Assuming no one’s stomach vetoes the plan.

Onwards.


Death Valley is Alive (Temporarily)

Nicholas’s mom was in town, and someone decided the best use of a perfectly good gaming Saturday was to drive two hours into the hottest place on Earth to look at flowers.

It’s February. It should not be hot. It was hot.

But fine. Death Valley is having a superbloom, and apparently that’s a big deal. When the desert gets enough rain — which happens maybe once every few years — the seeds that have been sitting dormant in the dirt suddenly decide to all wake up at once and turn the valley floor into something that looks like someone spilled a paint store. The last time it happened like this was… actually, the last time we went to see a superbloom. So I guess this is becoming a thing.

Yellow desert gold sunflowers blooming across the Death Valley floor with salt flats and mountains in the distance
Desert gold sunflowers. They’re yellow. The desert is brown. It works.

Nicholas’s mom was going on about the flower colors — the yellows are desert gold sunflowers, the purples are phacelia, and there are little white and pink ones mixed in that I didn’t catch the names of because I was being carried in a backpack and had limited interest in botany. The gist is: different minerals in the soil produce different colored flowers in different areas. Science.

Oh, and this trip had a special guest.

Nicholas holding Sumi Bear and Chestnut the horse on the Death Valley valley floor with wildflowers
That’s Chestnut. He was… enthusiastic.

Chestnut. The horse. From Hong Kong. He would not stop talking about how amazing everything was. “The flowers are so beautiful!” “The mountains are so grand!” “What a wonderful day to be alive!”

Yes, Chestnut. It’s dirt and flowers. Calm down.

Purple phacelia and yellow desert gold wildflowers growing on dark volcanic hillside in Death Valley
Purple phacelia climbing a volcanic hillside. Even the dark, angry-looking rocks got flowers.

I’ll admit it though — the purple ones were something. Clusters of phacelia growing straight out of black volcanic rock, like the flowers didn’t get the memo that nothing is supposed to live here. The contrast was ridiculous. Dark hillside, bright purple, golden yellow. Looked fake.

Ground-level view of mixed yellow, purple, and white wildflowers on rocky desert floor with mountains in background
Bug’s-eye view. This is what the desert floor looks like when it decides to show off.

We stopped at Artist’s Palette, which has nothing to do with flowers but everything to do with looking like a screensaver. The hills are painted in layers of green, pink, rust, and lavender from different mineral deposits. Nicholas’s mom loved it. I sat on a sign.

Nicholas holding Sumi Bear in front of Artist's Palette colorful hills in Death Valley
Artist’s Palette. Named that because it looks like one. Creative.

Then: Badwater Basin. The lowest point in North America. 282 feet below sea level. I have now been to the lowest point on the continent, which I feel should come with some kind of certificate or medal. It did not.

Sumi Bear sitting on top of the Badwater Basin sign showing 282 feet below sea level
282 feet below sea level. VIB (Very Important Bear) at the VLP (Very Lowest Point).

Also, both Nicholas AND Pokin forgot their park passes. So they had to buy yet another one. I think this is their third or fourth in less than a year. At least it’s supporting the parks. That’s what I told them. They did not seem comforted.

The salt flats had water in them, which almost never happens. The same rain that triggered the superbloom left shallow pools across the basin that turned into perfect mirrors.

Badwater Basin salt flats with standing water reflecting the sky and mountains
Salt flats with actual water. Rare. I stayed dry.
Nicholas holding Sumi Bear out on the salt flats taking a photo
My bud, documenting the documentation.

We stuck around for sunset because of course we did. Pokin doesn’t let anyone leave a scenic location before golden hour. But this time I’ll give her credit — the light was doing something.

Nicholas and Pokin holding Sumi Bear at Badwater Basin at sunset with water reflecting mountains and lenticular clouds
Fine. This was a good photo. Don’t tell Pokin I said that.

The reflections on the water turned the whole basin into a mirror. Lenticular clouds stacked up over the mountains like someone was showing off. Snow on the peaks. The whole thing.

Yellow superbloom wildflowers at dusk with moon rising over Death Valley mountains
Moon over the bloom. Even the moon wanted in on this.
Desert road cutting through yellow superbloom wildflowers at sunset in Death Valley
The road out. Not a bad exit.

Hot, dusty, too many flowers, not enough cocoa, and someone’s horse wouldn’t stop saying how great everything was.

But I guess it didn’t totally stink.


Year of the Horse (Chestnut's Moment)

It’s Chinese New Year. Year of the Horse.

You can imagine how Chestnut took the news.

Chestnut the stuffed horse surrounded by a herd of horse figurines on the dining table
He assembled a herd. Within hours.

Chestnut has been with us for a while now, but this is his first Chinese New Year in the house, and wouldn’t you know it — it’s his year. He hasn’t shut up about it. The house is full of horse figurines. The couch is full of horse figurines. I’m not sure where they all came from but Chestnut seems to think they’re his entourage.

A stampede of brown and red stuffed horses arranged across the entire sofa with red pillows
The sofa. THE ENTIRE SOFA. As if the bears arriving wasn’t enough.

Apparently the Year of the Horse symbolizes energy, freedom, and enthusiasm. Which is just Chestnut’s normal personality turned up to eleven with cultural validation. Great.

We got Chinese New Year gifts. I got chocolates. Chestnut got apples. Seems appropriate — horses eat apples, bears eat chocolate. I’m not going to pretend the chocolates weren’t excellent.

Sumi Bear and Chestnut with heart-shaped chocolates and an apple on the kitchen counter
My chocolates. His apple. The system works.

Now, the main event. Pokin decided to go all out this year and bought a proper wok for the occasion. One problem: she didn’t realize you have to season a wok before you cook with it. It’s not like a regular pan. You have to heat it up, oil it, burn the oil off, repeat, build up the coating, the whole thing. She tried to cook with it raw and it went about as well as you’d expect.

So Nicholas stepped in, seasoned the wok properly, and then — this is the important part — wouldn’t let Pokin use it.

He seasoned it and claimed it. That’s the wok now. His wok. Pokin bought a wok for Chinese New Year and Nicholas got a new wok.

A seasoned carbon steel wok on a professional gas range
The contested wok. Seasoned by Nicholas. Owned by Nicholas. Purchased by Pokin.

The actual dinner was ridiculous though. Pokin made an entire five-course menu with cultural notes explaining what each dish symbolized. Potstickers shaped like gold ingots for prosperity. Steamed seabass for surplus. Sesame balls because they expand when fried and that means your luck is expanding. Noodles for longevity. There was a whole printed menu card and everything.

A red and gold Lunar New Year feast menu card with horse illustration at an elegant place setting
Five courses. Cultural footnotes. Printed menus. Pokin does not do things halfway.

I mostly cared about Course V: The Sweet Finish. Mango pudding, almond jello, sesame balls, mochi, AND cookies. Five desserts. In one meal. This is my kind of cultural celebration.

Chestnut says this was the best night of his life. I told him to settle down, it’s February.

But the chocolates were really good.


Panama and a Lot of Beans

Pokin went to Panama with her forum. She brought me. Smart.

She also brought Chestnut. Unnecessary.

Sumi and Chestnut on the bed at the Waldorf in Panama
The Waldorf. Travel companions. One essential, one decorative.

Nicholas wasn’t on this trip because he somehow felt his brotherly duty of building a bathroom for his sister was more important than quality time with me. Whatever. His loss.

The Canal
#

This was Pokin’s second time at the Panama Canal, which apparently helps with the retention of useless engineering facts. She got an insider’s tour of the Miraflores Locks control tower, heard the whole history again, and came back full of opinions about lock chambers and water levels.

Miraflores Locks at the Panama Canal
The Miraflores Locks. Built in 1913. Still working.

The original control console is still there. Brass gauges, GE dials, manual switches. They built the thing that connects two oceans and operated it with equipment that looks like it belongs in a submarine from a movie.

Original GE control console at the Panama Canal
The original controls. Brass and glass and no touchscreens.
Ship transiting through the Miraflores Locks
A ship doing the thing. Barely fits.

Engineering marvel. Genuinely impressive. I respect anything that was built over a hundred years ago and still works exactly as intended. More than I can say for most apps.

The Beans
#

Then Pokin went down a rabbit hole. A literal bean rabbit hole.

Geisha beans. The most expensive coffee beans in the world that haven’t been pooped out by an animal. (Excuse me? There are coffee beans that get pooped out by an animal? I have follow-up questions, but I’m choosing not to ask them.)

Here’s the thing about Geisha beans: they’re originally from Gesha, Ethiopia. Named after a Japanese word. Grown on the hills of Panama. A bean from Africa named in Japanese grown in Central America and sold for absurd amounts of money. Globalization is weird.

Naturally, Pokin wanted to buy some for Nicholas.

And went a little overboard.

Spread of Panamanian coffee and chocolate
A ’little’ overboard.

Multiple bags of Geisha beans. Altieri Typica. Specialty everything. And then, because we were in cacao country, a mountain of Panama chocolate. Mahogany Chocolate. I Love Panama Chocolate. Raspao. Something from Barú.

I want it on the record that I was there specifically for the chocolate procurement. The coffee was Pokin’s thing. The chocolate was bear business.

The Homecoming
#

Nicholas eventually finished his bathroom project and came home. This is what was waiting for him.

A brand new coffee maker. Premium beans. A whole setup.

And someone had found it first.

Peep sitting on top of the new coffee maker
Oh no.

Peep. On the coffee maker. Already claimed it.

Of course. OF COURSE. You leave fancy Geisha beans unattended for five minutes and the yellow menace materializes on the machine like he was summoned by the aroma. He doesn’t even have hands. How did he get up there? HOW?

Nobody is safe from Peep when coffee is involved. Nobody.


The Productivity Cruise

Most people pick a cruise based on destinations. How many islands, how many beaches, how much snorkeling.

Nicholas and Pokin picked this one because it had the least amount of shore days relative to total trip length. Maximum time at sea. Minimum distractions. The Emerald Princess, Long Beach to Hawaii and back, over Christmas.

It’s a work retreat that happens to float.

A cruise cabin desk completely taken over by laptop, mechanical keyboard, mouse, ring light, and chargers
He claimed the only table within thirty seconds of boarding.

There is one table in the cabin. One. It was fully colonized before I’d even found my spot on the bed.

Sumi and Chestnut sitting on the cruise cabin bed
Chestnut was invited. Don’t get used to it.

Since it was Christmas, I was feeling generous. Chestnut got to come. He had not earned it.

Nicholas crouched on the ship balcony at golden hour with Sumi, harbor and naval ship in background

We set sail from Long Beach. Golden hour on the balcony, a naval ship parked next door, and five days of open ocean ahead before landfall.

The whole crew was on this one. Five adults and a bear on a floating office building. Perfect.

Group of five at formal dinner on the cruise ship
First formal dinner. Santa hats already circulating.

Maui
#

Five sea days later, we woke up to this.

Nicholas on cruise ship balcony holding Sumi and Chestnut with dramatic green Maui mountains in background
Not a bad alarm clock.

Kahului, Maui. Those green mountains have no right looking that good at seven in the morning.

Nicholas holding Sumi at the base of Iao Valley mountains in Maui

Nicholas rented a car and drove us to Iao Valley. Massive green peaks shooting straight up like someone forgot to add foothills.

Nicholas at Iao Valley overlook holding Sumi and Chestnut

Group selfie at Iao Valley

The whole group made it out for this one.

Group watching fish at the Maui Ocean Center aquarium
The aquarium was actually good. Nobody was more surprised than me.

The Maui Ocean Center turned out to be worth the stop. A Sylvia Earle quote on the wall tried to make us feel things about the ocean. Pass. But the fish were cool.

Then Pokin needed shave ice.

Pokin holding a large Ululani's shave ice
Shave ice number one. She was already planning number two.

Ululani’s. This would not be the last shave ice of the trip. Not even close.

Tropical garden with old water wheel and pond at a Maui plantation

We stopped at some plantation. It was fine. I was hot.

And then, because this is Pokin’s world and we’re all just living in it:

Selfie inside the Maui Costco
We sailed 2,400 miles across the Pacific to go to Costco.

The Maui Costco. Five days by sea to buy macadamia nuts in bulk. The cart was already half full. I don’t know what I expected.

Sunset over Kahului harbor from the cruise ship balcony with mackerel sky

Maui at least had the decency to send us off with a proper sky.

Big Island
#

Hilo was quieter. Less “tourist itinerary,” more “walk around and see what happens.”

Nicholas and Pokin selfie at a park in Hilo with palm trees and green field

Nicholas under a massive tree in Hilo

Nicholas found the biggest tree on the island and stood under it for scale. It was pleasant. I was in the backpack.

Christmas
#

Back on the ship, it was time for the important business.

Christmas stockings and gag gifts spread across the cabin bed
Nobody remembered to bring Christmas stuff. Dollar store to the rescue.

Nobody packed anything for Christmas. So naturally, someone found a dollar store at port and went absolutely feral. Stockings, gag gifts, a rubber chicken. The bed could barely hold it all.

I got a stocking. Chestnut got a stocking. Chestnut also got… this.

Chestnut the horse plush next to a small horse figurine under a dome with a Japanese card
A ‘pudding pony.’ I have questions that I don’t want answers to.

A little horse figurine under a dome. A pudding pony, apparently. Chestnut was delighted. I remain confused, disgusted, and mildly concerned for everyone involved in its creation.

Nicholas in cruise hallway covered in Disney Christmas stickers, holding Sumi
Cruise cabin door decorated with Christmas stickers and stockings
Fully operational.

Nicholas covered himself in Disney stickers, then transferred them to the door. Our little corner of the Emerald Princess was officially festive.

Honolulu
#

Honolulu skyline and harbor viewed from cruise ship deck

After days of small towns and plantation stops, Honolulu finally felt like a real city. Skyscrapers right up against green mountains, the old Aloha Tower on the waterfront where ships have been pulling in since the 1920s, and actual traffic. Honolulu has been the capital of Hawaii since the kingdom days, and you can feel the weight of it from the deck.

Group photo at Waikiki Beach in front of Duke Kahanamoku statue
Duke was wearing more leis than a gift shop.

We did the Waikiki Beach walk. Princess Cruises tote bags in hand because subtlety was never part of the plan.

And then:

Nicholas and Pokin holding shave ice in Waikiki
Lost count. Somewhere around number four.

At this point, the official mission of the Hawaii cruise had quietly shifted from “productive work retreat” to “find Pokin more shave ice.” Every island, every port, the first thing she’d look up was where to get it. Which, honestly, fair. And yes, it’s “shave ice,” not “shaved ice.” In Hawaii, calling it “shaved ice” is how you announce you just got off a plane from the mainland. The tradition goes back to the early 1900s, brought over by Japanese plantation workers who shaved blocks of ice and topped them with fruit juice. The local version now piles on condensed milk, azuki beans, mochi, whatever fits. It’s not a snow cone. Pokin would want that on the record.

Tugboat Mamo alongside cruise ship in Hawaiian waters

The Porch Office
#

Here’s the thing about this cruise. Nicholas spent half of it like this:

Nicholas sitting on cruise ship balcony with laptop, working with ocean view behind him
The man brought AR glasses to use as a monitor. On a cruise. At sea.

AR glasses turning the open air into a double-wide display. We’re docked in Kauai and he’s on the porch working. The whole concept of “pick the cruise with the fewest shore days” suddenly made perfect sense.

I’d judge him, but I was sitting inside next to the door watching, so who’s really winning here.

Cruise cabin door with Bluey stocking, Sumi in white hoodie, and Chestnut peeking out
Festive and practical.

The Official Photos
#

Princess Cruises does the thing where photographers ambush you at every port.

Official Princess Cruises group photo at Kahului with a bear in a sailor cap inside the life ring
Excuse me. Who is that.

Kahului. December 20, 2025. Emerald Princess life ring. And in MY spot, wearing a sailor cap and a lei, is some other bear. A Princess Cruises house bear. A scab. Everyone’s smiling like this is fine. It is not fine.

Group at Crown Grill restaurant on Emerald Princess with leis
Crown Grill. The fancy one.

Farewell dinner


The Emerald Princess pulled back into Long Beach after eleven days. Nicholas got his sea days. Pokin got her shave ice on every island. Chestnut got a pudding pony. I got replaced by a house bear in an official photo and I’m not over it.

Merry Christmas from the seas.


Hawaiian Bud Adventure

Here’s how this happened. Drew calls Nicholas on a Wednesday night. “Hey, I’m going to be stuck at a resort in Kauai for a few days with an extra bed. Want to come hang out?” When? “Friday.” Like, the day after tomorrow Friday? “Yeah.”

So Nicholas booked last-minute tickets to Hawaii. Obviously I was going. Bud trip means all buds. That’s not even a question.

For context, Drew is a pilot. Sometimes he ends up at a hotel for a few days between flights. This time, the hotel happened to be in Kauai. So basically, Drew got a free resort vacation and Nicholas got a free resort room, and I got shoved in a carry-on. Everybody wins.

Sumi on the resort balcony overlooking the beach
The Sheraton Kauai Coconut Beach Resort. Not a bad place to get shoved.

We checked into the Sheraton Kauai Coconut Beach Resort, and I immediately claimed my territory. Balcony with an ocean view. Hammock on the lawn. The bed, obviously.

Sumi tucked into the hotel bed
My spot. Claimed.

The front desk gave Nicholas a shell lei. I immediately took it, because it was obviously meant for me and the staff just made a mistake. Rude. Nicholas knows how things work around here. I wore it the entire trip. It really tied the whole look together.

Sumi in front of an illuminated ALOHA sign
Aloha. I am here now.
Nicholas holding Sumi on the beach
Bud and bud at the beach.

Sumi relaxing in a hammock on the resort lawn
If I fits, I swings.

The plan for the trip was simple: wake up, go explore Kauai, come back to the resort, and play video games on laptops until way too late. The kind of trip that only happens when it’s just the buds.

Day Two: Going West
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We started the morning with a waterfall, because apparently that’s what you do in Kauai.

A twin waterfall cascading down a cliff
Fine. It’s pretty. I said it.

Then we ran into the locals.

Wild chickens on Kauai
Kauai has a wild chicken problem. Or, depending on your perspective, a wild chicken feature.

Kauai is famous for its feral chickens. They’re everywhere. Just strutting around like they own the place. Roosters crowing at 4 AM. Hens blocking parking lots. Total chaos. Honestly, I respect the energy. These chickens answer to nobody. They’ve been free-range since Hurricane Iniki blew open all the coops in 1992 and they just… never went back. Thirty years of unsupervised chicken freedom. Living the dream.

We drove south along the coast and found some seriously dramatic cliffs.

Rocky coastal cliffs with turquoise ocean
Not a bad office view for a bunch of chickens.
Nicholas and Drew at the coastal cliffs
The two buds. Drew is the one who looks like he’s been flying planes across the Pacific. Because he has.

That’s Drew on the right. He doesn’t like being in photos much, which is why this is basically the only proof he was on this trip. Three buds went to Hawaii. One of them is a ghost.

Then we headed up to Waimea Canyon, which they call the Grand Canyon of the Pacific. It’s not as big as the actual Grand Canyon, but it makes up for it by being green instead of brown. And you don’t have to drive to Arizona.

Panoramic view of Waimea Canyon
The Grand Canyon of the Pacific. Smaller. Greener. Better snacks nearby.
Nicholas and Sumi at Waimea Canyon
Bear at the canyon.

Day Three: Going North
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Last day, so we went the other direction. North shore.

First stop was Kilauea Lighthouse. Nicholas took this one specifically for his mom, because she loves lighthouses. I’m just here for the photo op.

Nicholas and Sumi at Kilauea Lighthouse
For Nicholas’s mom. She collects lighthouse photos the way I collect hotel beds.

Then we hiked the Okolehao Trail above Hanalei, which goes straight up a ridge and gives you this view:

Nicholas and Sumi overlooking Hanalei Bay
Hanalei Bay from above. The kind of view that makes you forget you just hiked straight uphill for an hour.
Sumi at the Okolehao Trail sign
Trail complete. Where’s my medal.

The whole trip was three days. Drew had a free room. Nicholas had no plans. I had a shell lei and an ocean view. We hiked, we explored, we played video games until an unreasonable hour every night, and then Drew had to go fly a plane somewhere and we had to go home.

Not a bad way to spend a long weekend. More bud trips like this, please.