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Dragon Slayers, Maypoles, and Smultron

The family was celebrating Midsommar. A whole day of activities planned. Apparently my bud didn’t think to pack me. So I got left behind while everyone else went off to see thousand-year-old dragon carvings and dance around a maypole.

I’m not bitter. I’m just documenting.

The Sigurd Carving
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First stop: a forest path leading to what Nicholas described as “Viking runes or something?” when he was trying to convince me it wasn’t a big deal he left me behind.

Nicholas walking down a forest path near Sundbyholm
My bud, strolling through the Swedish woods like he’s on the cover of a hiking catalog.

“Viking runes or something” turned out to be the Sigurdsristningen, one of Sweden’s most important Viking-age rock carvings. Carved around 1030 CE into a rock face at Ramsundsberget, near Sundbyholm. It tells the story of Sigurd the Dragon Slayer, the hero who killed the dragon Fafner, roasted its heart, and understood the language of birds afterward.

So not just “some runes.” A thousand-year-old comic strip about a guy who murdered a dragon and ate its heart. Which, honestly, is the most metal thing I’ve ever heard.

The Sigurdsristningen rock carving with red-painted Norse imagery
A thousand-year-old Norse saga, painted in red on a rock in the woods. No big deal.

The red paint isn’t original. It’s a preservation technique to make the carvings visible. But the carvings themselves are nearly a millennium old. Sigurd, the dragon, the birds, the whole saga, all etched into this rock face in the middle of a quiet Swedish forest. The kind of thing you walk right past if nobody tells you it’s there.

Nicholas and Pokin posing in front of the Sigurd rock carving
Nicholas and Pokin, posing in front of a dragon murder scene. Romantic.

On the walk back, Pokin found wild strawberries growing along the trail. As you do in Sweden.

Three tiny wild strawberries in Pokin's palm
Smultron. Swedish wild strawberries. Three of them. A feast.

These are smultron, Swedish wild strawberries. Tiny, bright red, and apparently the most Midsommar thing you can eat. Three berries in a palm. Sweden does portion control differently.

The Runestone
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A short drive south, they stopped at a runestone standing alone in an open field near Larsbo.

A tall runestone with red-painted runic inscriptions standing in a grassy field
A runestone in the wild. Red runes, serpent carvings, birch trees. Södermanland has more of these per square kilometer than anywhere else in Sweden.

Södermanland, the region around Eskilstuna, has the densest concentration of runestones in Sweden. They’re everywhere, just standing in fields and forests like furniture someone forgot to move. This one has the classic serpent-band design with runic inscriptions, probably a memorial stone from the 11th century.

Midsommar at Sundbyholm Castle
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Then the main event. Cousin Karin brought everyone to Sundbyholms Slott, a castle from 1648 on the shores of Lake Mälaren, where the town puts on a proper Midsommar celebration.

Sundbyholm Castle with Swedish flags and visitors on Midsommar
Sundbyholm Castle. Swedish flags, flower crowns, and a woman who dressed exactly right for the occasion.
Midsommar maypole celebration with crowd on the castle lawn
The midsommarstång. Greenery, ring garlands, families on the lawn. This is what Midsommar looks like when you do it properly.

The midsommarstång went up at 4 PM in the castle park. Families spread out on the lawn. Kids ran around. Flower crowns everywhere. The whole thing looked like a scene from a movie where someone says “let’s spend the summer in Sweden” and then everything is perfect.

I would have looked great in a flower crown, by the way.

The Family Picnic
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After the maypole, everyone went back to the family’s house for a home-cooked picnic on the deck. Classic falun-red Swedish house with white trim, climbing vines, flower beds, apple tree with a Swedish flag in the garden. The whole thing.

Swedish garden with apple tree and Swedish flag on white flagpole
Apple tree, Swedish flag, red house. If this were any more Swedish it would come with an IKEA manual.
Nicholas and Pokin posing in the garden of a red Swedish house
Nicholas and Pokin in front of the house. Golden hour. Looking like they belong here.
Group selfie with about ten people on a wooden deck with countryside view
The whole crew. Drinks, farmland stretching to the horizon. Nobody saved me a seat.

Cousin Karin organized the whole day, from the dragon carvings to the maypole to this.

I know all of this because I looked at the photos. Because I was at the hotel. Because Nicholas couldn’t be bothered to toss me in his backpack for what turned out to be the most Swedish day of the entire trip.

Next time, I’m going. Whether Nicholas remembers me or not.