Homeward bound

With our big hiking adventure done, we started making our way back to Managua.  For no good reason, we were getting up earlier again because the hotel owner had made the mistake of mentioning to Nicholas that a nicer ferry left at 7:30am every morning.  So we tried to take this 7:30am ferry.

The cab Nicholas had negotiated was waiting for us when we grudging got up.  At the ferry terminal, I turned around and got another look at
Volcán Concepción, which was again, still covered in clouds.

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Then it was time to board the ferry.

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Since this is the only ferry for basically everything that needs to be transported between Ometepe and the mainland, you found just about everything on the boat.  Tourists, backpackers, Canadians, even trucks full of bananas.

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This ferry WAS nicer than the other one.  They even served breakfast.  My bud didn’t want any and so I didn’t get any either.  Jerk.  I got out to the deck for another view of the volcano.

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Bye Concepción!  I’m glad I’m not wet and squished atop you!

Although the ferry was newer, newer didn’t make it go faster and the return trip was the same over an hour back to shore.  There, Nicholas again negotiated with a cab driver to take us back to Managua, but stopping to check out Granada on the way.  The nice taxi driver chatted with us the whole way to Managua.

“How’s the spanish feeling?” Nicholas asks Pokin when we got to Granada.

“Pretty good!  I feel like I can actually understand everything”

“Good!  I told the taxi driver you were learning spanish and to please speak slowly and with easy words”

Pokin looked crestfallen.  I’m just glad my bud can translate and I know my important words like cacao and caliente.

Granada is also along the shores of Lake Nicaragua, about 40 minutes away from Managua.  It is interesting because it’s still got its colourful colonial architecture.  It’s also where a lot of the expats have chosen to settle.  We asked our driver to let us stop for a lunch, where we got to walk around.

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I tried to go here for lunch but my bud opted for something more casual.

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And then it was for the final stretch back to Managua.

For our last night in Nicaragua, Nicholas found one of the nicer hotels in the city.  His idea was that we were celebrating now.  Yes!  Celebrating going back home!

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Hotel Contempo was, well, a contemporary hotel situated in what looked like a residential neighbourhood.  That’s the thing that’s so funny about Managua.  It doesn’t look like there are very clear districts or zones.  We seemed to be surrounded by giant private estates, all of which were fenced and guarded.  And the hotel was not located on a main street but rather a few blocks and turns off the main road smack inside this neighbourhood.  “Ok we’re eating in the hotel restaurant again,” decided Nicholas, and then we retired back to the room where everybody else made mention of the presence of hot water.

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Next morning, another traditional breakfast for Pokin, french toast for Nicholas.

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And time for the airport.

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I’m glad to be homeward bound.  This country was cool, but my bud didn’t whip out his laptop to play games even once!

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We have to talk a little more about work / game balance once we get home.

The big hike up an active volcano

The alarm went off at 4:30.  At least I think it did. I sort of remember getting rolled into a bag.  Pokin and Nick left the hotel room, and met the guide who was already waiting for us.  The group of us climbed wordlessly into a taxi for our short ride to the hiking trailhead.

The two most popular hikes up Volcan Concepcion are La Flor, near Moyogalpa, and La Sabana near Altagracia.  We did neither.  Instead, our hike seemed to start on the southeast corner of the active volcano.  Since it was 5am, it was still dark when we got started.  Still, our guide had eyes like a cat and he walked pretty confidently up the trail.  Pokin and my bud used flashlights.  About 5 minutes into the hike, our guide decided to make Pokin a walking stick.

The first part of the trail was pretty “level”, though there was definitely an incline through private property.  After trekking for about an hour, we reached the park perimeter hut (somebody’s farm) where we paid our entrance fee of $1.

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Here is where the real incline starts.  By now it became light enough for us to put away our flashlights.  We started making our way up.

Sunrise!  We’re on some serious slope.

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Up and up we went, 2 hours, 3 hours.

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Since it’s early, the cloud cover was still low, and probably about halfway up the volcano, we started heading into it.  Throughout this time, we’re on a 45 degree incline.  And that’s when things started to get dicey.

February is windy season.  Everywhere you go you can hear the winds howl.  Normally it’s just nice, but on a volcano, we really started feeling it whip is around.

And still we climbed.

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And then we noticed our clothes were damp.  No, it wasn’t raining.  It was just damp from the clouds.  Darnit, I didn’t sign up for a bath!  I am so wet.  This sucks.

Four hours.  Five hours.  We kept climbing.  Now we are going almost vertical.  There’s our guide.  Wind is about 100km/h (60mph).  That dot in the background is probably Pokin.  I can’t really tell, I can’t see anything and I’m wet.  I’m going back in my bag.

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At around the 5 hour mark, my bud and I made it to the summit and waited for everyone to make it up.  Pokin didn’t know, but my bud and I had big plans.   The guide made it up.  We waited.  Here’s Pokin still trying to climb up.

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And we waited.  The wind is howling furiously and all of us are getting blown around the top of the summit.  We waited.

Turns out Pokin wasn’t coming.  We couldn’t really see her, but my bud eventually found her huddled in a heap, clutching to some rocks, bawling her eyes out.  It was pretty steep.  And wet.  And cold.  We were all miserable.  But we knew Pokin would want to make it to the summit so my bud and the guide helped her up to the top, basically by hauling her up with her backpack strap.  We all made it.

We are also all wet and cold.  And the wind is still beating us in the face at 100km/h.  But here we are sitting on the edge, looking down into the crater of an ACTIVE VOLCANO.

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At this moment, my bud decided to enact THE PLAN.

“Hey Pokin, turn around” he says.  Pokin was still clutching to the side of the crater holding on for dear life as she’s still trying to regain her composure.  I got into position on his lap.

“I need you to turn around,” he says again.  At glacial speed, she finally does so.

“So I’d like to propose we forge an alliance here by the fires of Mount Doom with a ring.” (My bud’s a nerd. I only half approve.)

Pokin looks at my bud with non comprehension.  My bud gets on his knee.  Pokin doesn’t notice.  “Will you marry me?”

My bud produces a ring.  By the way, proposing on the side of an active volcano was something I thought I had definitely approved of… but that was before the wind and cold.  Oh well, it’s still awesome and I told my bud that if she said no he could at least throw the ring into the volcano like they did in Lord of the Rings.

The guide starts laughing.  (Earlier in the day, the guide kept asking if my bud and Pokin were married and my bud kept saying soon to which the guide jested that maybe we were planning on getting married on the mountain.)

However, Pokin doesn’t say a thing.

“Is that a maybe?” says my bud.

A cold Pokin finally answers, “After this hike? Yes it’s a maybe.”  “Ok good enough”, says my bud.  “Let me hold on to the ring for you as we climb back down.”

We “hurry” back down the hill.

Unfortunately going down the hill at a near vertical incline isn’t very quick.  It ends up taking as long going down as we took going up.  Pokin is on all fours right now inching her way down the volcano, so my bud decides to hold her backpack and hiking stick for her.

And a gust of wind comes along, blowing my bud down the volcano.

My bud loses his balance.  He catches himself with the walking stick.

The stick snaps in half.  My bud falls.  I fall.  We tumble.  Ouch.   I don’t like this.

Luckily, all our video gaming practice was good for my bud’s dexterity and he rolled down the hill like we do in our games.  My bud only scraped up his arms a little.

“You’re lucky,” says our guide “people have gotten way more hurt here.  Some have died.  And that’s why a guide is required on this mountain.”  We also later learn that the wind and incline means helicopter rescues are impossible.

We continue down the mountain.  Slowly.

At some point, Pokin finally defrosts enough to say yes.  We are all still totally soaked by clouds and still thoroughly miserable.  I’m on Pokin’s back now (bad idea) and she starts falling nonstop.  Owww.  This hurts.  She keeps falling on me.  Oww.

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The nice thing about our return trip is that we got to take a different route down.  This route had a scree hill that let you run down a third of the mountain.  My bud and our guide ran down it pretty fast.

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Pokin, on the other hand was too scared to do so.  So she sat on her butt and slid down.  Pictured in hand is a new walking stick, not the one that betrayed my bud.

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If it were just the bud, guide and I, we would have been down fairly fast, but eventually we made it down past the scree and back into the forest.

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You can see all the scree behind us!  Now that it’s finally back in warmer territory and as our pants are drying you can see Pokin is in better spirits.  She even had enough energy to demand a coke when we got back to the hut.

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We did a check on my bud.  He’s bloodied up, but should retain his gaming dexterity.  I breathe a sigh of relief.

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Eventually, about 10 hours after we made our start, we got back on the road.  THANK GOODNESS.  We survived.  I got sat on more times than I cared to be, but we all made it!

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And that was the story about the time we had an aventura on a volcano (elevation 5,282 ft,  1610m) so my bud could propose.

Onwards to Ometepe

After three nights in San Juan, we made our way towards the island of Ometepe, home to those two active volcanoes in the middle of Lake Nicaragua – Volcán Concepción and its sister, Volcán Maderas. Volcán Concepción is still active, having last erupted in 2010 while Maderas has never been active.  At 1600m tall, Volcán Concepción is the 2nd tallest mountain in all of Nicaragua just behind San Cristobal, and is known for its perfect cone shape.  Madereas, while shorter, is home to a laguna inside its crater.  It’s also where they grow coffee and cacao!!!!

From San Juan, it was a $25USD taxi ride to San Jorge, followed by a boat ride.

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I am NOT sure how I felt about getting on these boats.  They were…somewhat…rickety.  The fare was like $1USD a person, and they gave everyone a life vest that looked like it had first been run over by a bunch of trucks.  Given that this lake is home to bull sharks, I just hope this boat doesn’t fail and we end up in the lake.  On the positive front, we didn’t.

Our ferry  ride took about an hour, after which we headed into another taxi towards the eastern side of the island near Altagracia.  My bud mentioned something about being nervous because he never heard back from the hotel he was booking from, but we arrived to what looked like a picturesque banana plantation that opened up into clearing where a colonial compound sat.  And this compound had a sweet lake view.  Nice!  And they were expecting us!  Even better!

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This was our view right outside of the bedroom.

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My bud and I found a hammock and we settled in nicely.

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Evening came and we had to talk plans for the next day.  Nicholas had planned a surprise activity involving a guide who then showed up to give us a brief.

“Tomorrow will be strenuous.  We will be hiking up to the top of Volcán Concepción.   The hike will take between 8-10 hours.  Make sure you pack a lot of food, as well as 4L of water per person.  It will be cold and windy.  Make sure you bring a jacket.”

“Just how strenuous is strenous?  how windy?  I didn’t bring a jacket.   I wasn’t prepared for this” says Pokin.

“Pretty strenuous.  We start at 6am”

“I think we better start at 5,” says Pokin.  “Also, we didn’t bring food.”  She did not say that.  I’m not getting up at 5.  What do you mean we don’t have food?

“Sure, we’ll be here by 5am.  We can pick up a couple sandwiches for the each of you.”

“What did you sign us up for?” says Pokin to Nick.  He wisely says nothing.

I think it’s time to change the subject.  Oh and look dinner is here!  Because we are in a pretty remote little compound, we didn’t even think to look elsewhere for food.  There was a cook on the compound who made breakfast, lunch and dinner every day.  Breakfast was included, lunch was $6 and dinner $9.  Because Ometepe has rich volcanic soil and pesticides are expensive, a lot of foods are actually organic.  My bud tells me the food is delicious.  I’m just looking around wishing I knew what a cacao plant looked like.

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Well, with our early start, we’d better head to bed.  No gaming for this bear.

House hunting in San Juan

Today we looked at houses in earnest.

Well first I made bud get me some mocha. Gotta try the cocoa goods after all.

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We actually looked a combination of lots and houses as most of San Juan is still undeveloped.  Lots with a view ranged from $80K to $230K depending on the size and quality of view and were usually between 500m and 1000m in size.  Since many of the roads are not yet paved and are steep dirt roads, “15 minutes away from town” isn’t that far from the map, and prices of lots drops off very steeply after that.  Once you buy a lot, you can then contract someone to build the lots for you, although it requires a lot of hands on supervision.  Depending on the quality of the house you can expect to pay between $60-$100/sq ft of house.  To buy a house, it looks like prices run at closer to $220-$250/sq ft.

Here’s an empty lot up in Paradise Bay, which is a development adjacent to San Juan.

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And a house with a view.  I liked that view.  My bud and I wanted that view.  We tried to buy it, in fact, but Nicaragua houses are based on cash not financing.  I’d like to think I’m a balla bear but we’re not that baller, sadly.  Do not touch my bear bin Nicholas!!!

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Another house across the bay.  This is in the Pacific Marlin Malibu development.  Houses were $550K but completely turn key.  They were pretty nice but all built way too close to one another.  I wanted a place that could be a bear retreat.sumi bear in san juan del sur house hunting-4

The next day we went out again to look at more lots.  This is actually the driverway of our realtor’s house. He hooked himself up with a sweet house and sweet view.  This is what I want to do I am totally going to do.

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And yet another lot – on the top of the mountains!  You really need a 4WD car to get around.  Even paved roads are incredibly steep.  Good thing I can fly.

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At the end of the trip, we got a good sense of options.  I want that view from that house!!!

Some other interesting things we found out about houses in San Juan and Nicaragua in general – because there is so much outdoor living, outdoor spaces are included as part of the square foot listed.  Also because the infrastructure isn’t fully developed, most houses are on septic tanks.  As Nicaragua is still a developing country, many of the houses come with caretaker units, which allows you to hire live-ins to help you with your house and property.  The average salary starts at $250 a month, but you actually pay 13 months as there is one month of vacation.  I definitely want a live in caretaker to serve me cocoa at my paw beckon.  Currently my bud doesn’t respond when I ask for cocoa.  I wonder if I could find a caretaker that would game with me too.  My bud’s been a little inconsistent for that.

Bud, you’re on notice.

Onwards to San Juan Del Sur

We got up in the morning, and at 10am, our taxi driver from yesterday, Marcao came to pick us up.  Today’s trip is a 2.5 hour drive from  Managua down to San Juan Del Sur.  I’m particularly excited about this destination as my bud tells me we might move here.  I was a little mixed about moving to Nicaragua, but then I read in the Lonely Planet Guide book that they grow cacao here.  Being situated close to a cocoa source?  I could live with that.  Onwards!

Along the drive we passed by sugar plantations, and got our first glimpses of that famed Lake Nicaragua.  Lake is big!  Looks like the ocean!

Yesterday for lunch, we invited our taxi driver Marcao to eat with us, so today he kindly offered to take us to visit some of the sites on our way to San Jan.

One detour Marcao took us to was Laguna Apoyo.  This lake is formed from the caldera of an extinct volcano.  The volcano must have been massive, as the laguna has a diameter of 6.6km.

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What was interesting about this stop was that it felt more like a local tourist stop than international.  Most of the souvenirs were brightly coloured and comprised lawn ornaments.  Also all manner of tropical plants were being sold in little plastic bags.  I tried to look for a cacao plant, but alas, I had no wifi and I have no idea what cacao plants look like.  Nicholas, help me find one!

We then walked along the rim a little along with all the other local tourists before getting back to the car to continue on our way.

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Right around 1:30, we got into the hotel where we are staying, the Villas de Palermo.  The Villas de Palermo are set of apartments that are run like a hotel.  My bud tells me we signed up for the all inclusive package.  Sweet!

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This is where I am going to camp out to sip my cold beverages of choice.

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Next stop – the beach!

Villas de Palermo isn’t really walking distance to the beach, but they offer a free shuttle.  So we hopped on the shuttle and went down the beach.

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Annnnd apparently we missed the memo that Nicaragua is a Canadian hotspot.  French Canadians everywhere for Sunday Funday!  That’s right, these fellow Canadians know about Super Sumi Sunday!!  Except that they seemed to be more interested in partying and drinking beer than gaming.  Silly Canadians.

Not a bad view.

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I could like it here.

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Check out more of these partying Canadians.

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Exploring Nicaragua

This week, we are hanging out in Nicaragua.  Nicaragua is a Central American country sandwiched between Guatemala and Costa Rica.  It’s slightly smaller than the state of Nevada.  Technically, that means there’s not much distance to get around, but given that many of the roads are still mostly dirt, it can still take a while.

Nicaragua is also that country known as the Land of the Lakes and Volcanoes thanks to its 50 Volcanoes (7 of which are active) and its giant lakes, the most famous of which is Lake Nicaragua.  Lake Nicaragua is a lake with TWO active volcanoes inside it, one of which also has a lake in it.  So that’s a lake (laguna) within a volcano that’s within a lake!  Lake Nicaragua is the 19th largest lake in the world, 9th largest in Central America.  Lake Nicaragua also has sharks.  SHARKS!  Bull sharks.  Maybe I’ll see some, though I haven’t decided if I want to see some.

We start our journey in Managua, the capital of Nicaragua.  The international airport is based here, about 20 minutes east of the city.

Interesting thing about Managua is that it’s a fairly flat city.  This is because the city got pretty leveled by a terremoto (earthquake) in 1972 that destroyed a lot of the buildings.  Most of the buildings have since been rebuilt but not as onrate or nice.  As a result, most visitors don’t stay long in Managua and instead use it as a gateway point onto other nearby cities.

Since Nicholas didn’t realize how close we were to other cities, we spent two days here.  So to kill time, we hired a taxi driver to take us around time.

First stop, Catedral de Santiago, which was an old cathedral that designed and shipped from Belgium in 1920.  It survived the earthquake of 1931 but didn’t survive the 1972 earthquake.  Currently it sits in condemned state and is mostly fenced off and guarded.

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After the Catedral, we drove by the shores of Lake Xolotan before heading up a nearby hill to look over the city.  Turns out the hill is on army territory.  Our first encounter with the army!  View was cool.  We went back down to the monument where I got to ride a canon.  We tried to walk all the way up the stairs but was stopped by a guard.

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There’s the guard walking in the background.  They take their monument protection seriously here!

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Next stop – my first active volcano!

As I said earlier, Nicaragua is the land of the active volcanoes.  About 30 minutes out of town is one of these active Volcanos,  Volcan Masaya.  For lazy people, what’s nice about this volcano is that you can drive right up to the crater’s rim.  Because it’s also one of the more active volcanoes, you’re only allowed to spend about 5 minutes at the crater, though no one is paying close attention.  We got up there, joined the hordes of people peering over the volcano and I saw it!  I saw lava!  Though there are trails and paths at the top, all of them were off limits, so after a few moments, we went back down.

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Turns out it’s supposed to be even more impressive to see the volcano at night.  I’ll have to keep that in mind for the next time.

Our first two days we stayed in the Art Hotel in Managua.  It’s a pretty low key hotel located in what seems to be a more residential neighbourhood.  Apparently it’s not that safe to walk around Managua at night so we just stayed in, ordered delivery and hung out on the table.  Art Hotel has a bunch of parrots that made it a point to squawk and wake me up really early every morning.  I’m looking at you, parrot, you terrible disturber of peace with wings.  Well I guess in this photo he’s looking at me but I made sure to give him plenty of evil eye when whenever we walked past them.

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And that was our stay at Managua.