Author Archives: sumi

Skógafoss part 2

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This morning Pokin actually read up on the Aurora Borealis in Iceland.

Turns out, while September and March are supposed to be the best times to see them in Iceland (September due to the Autumnal Equinox), Iceland isn’t actually the best place to see them in general. (Alert: because it’s often cloudy and rainy!!!) If aurora is your main purpose then you’re better off heading to places like Finland, Sweden, and Alaska. You can definitely see them in Iceland, and many people have taken great photos, but it is very much up to luck and timing. There are forecast apps and forecast sites that tell you the chances of seeing aurora, though apparently for Iceland they are not too reliable. Your best bet is to check out the live cams or follow one of the many Facebook groups that share sightings.

Well we were here supposedly to see the still resting Fagradalsfjall volcano, so I guess not seeing aurora is ok. From here on out the forecast doesn’t look great for aurora sightings.

Given it was raining this morning and given we were up a lot of the night waiting for the aurora to reappear, we decided to make it a rest day and take it easy.

Which lasted until about 11am.

“It’s nice out,” Nicholas said. “We should probably taken advantage.”

So again we bundled up and headed out. We considered a few options that we couldn’t do because of the rain yesterday, and in the ended decided to head back to Skógafoss.

Skógafoss also happened to be the starting point of the Fimmvörðuháls trailhead, apparently one of the top hikes in Iceland because you’re walking alongside a river dotted with waterfalls for the initial stretch. The whole trail is a 25km (16 mile) hike one way that ends in Þörsmock (Thórsmörk). Given that we were starting out at 11am and needed to drive 25 minutes to get to the starting point, we definitely weren’t doing the full hike, but we figured we’d get as far as we possibly could before turning around.

Back to the crowded parking lot and back up many flights of stairs we went.

My bud decided to film it on his GoPro.

Which was just like 10 minutes of walking up stairs. Longer for Pokin.

It didn’t take much going on the trail to lose most people. We didn’t lose the sheep though, which I didn’t mind. Sheep are fun.

We spent about 2 hours walking the trail.

Eventually we got to High Peak Falls, and decided we’d better turn around. Pokin had sunset plans and didn’t want to miss them.

The Aurora Borealis non event

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Night came and I was actually tired enough to fall asleep, being creeped out about Hotel Ranga notwithstanding.

Before we slept though, we put in a Northern Lights wakeup call, where reception calls you if they see the lights.

A little after midnight, they actually called. My bud and I were passed out. Pokin was still up. Who knows why.

We hurriedly got dressed in a lot of layers and went outside.

Only for the aurora to have disappeared from the naked eye in that time.

For a place that specializes in the aurora we didn’t get a lot of directions. They just had us file out to the front of the hotel where tonnes of parking lot lights were still blaring.

Since we didn’t have any direction, different guests started staring in different directions. Eventually we figured out Northern lights meant we should look north. And some time after that we actually figured out which direction was actually north.

I still didn’t see anything, but Pokin remembered that the camera can capture light where the naked eye cannot, so she started setting up long exposure shots.

Her camera picked this up.

My bud and I didn’t see a thing ourselves.

“Doesn’t count if we can’t see it with our own eyes,” my bud said.

I agreed.

“Does this mean we should go, like to Finland or Sweden later this year?” Pokin asked hopefully.

My bud and I give her a look. We’re cold, it’s windy, we got up for imaginary lights.

Time to go back to bed.

Skógafoss and Hotel Rangá

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Skógafoss was the next waterfall on our list. It’s also one of two waterfalls on basically every single tour to the South Coast of Iceland. In other words, it was plenty crowded. Skógafoss is known to be one of the most powerful waterfalls in terms of water volume, and on a sunny day, it’s supposed to throw the most rainbows. Naturally we went on a cloudy day.

The other cool thing is that you can walk right up to the falls. Less cool thing is that it basically means a gazillion other tourists are doing exactly that — loitering for eternity in FRONT of the waterfall and all your waterfall photos.

Like this.

Whatever. We went for a photo op anyway.

We looked around, noticed a viewpoint about 9 minutes of stair climbing up, and decided to head there.

View point is ok. I’ve seen better waterfalls. Pokin tells me to stop being a waterfall snob. I take the opportunity to remind her I didn’t even want to be seeing waterfalls anyway.

I’m secretly a little glad we went, but I’m also ready to head to our hotel. My bud and I are tired.

Tonight we’re headed for Hotel Rangá, where we’re staying for two nights. I saw it on the drive in and it looked like it there wasn’t around that seemed special.

Pokin said it was rated one of the top destinations for watching Aurora Borealis. To see the Aurora Borealis, you need to be around a lot of nothingness and darkness so you can look out into the sky. Aurora sounds cool. I’m down with that. The being around nothing doesn’t. Seems like good marketing spin to me, on the part of the hotel.

Annnnd…yup, I’m underwhelmed on arrival.

There’s something about this place that made me feel like I’m on the set of some sort of horror movie? I can’t explain why.

Maybe it’s this bear.

Maybe it’s this horrible decor for what’s supposed to be a nice place?

Maybe it’s the wood panelling. There’s wood panelling and then there’s this wood panelling.

There’s a lot of wood panelling.

I’m creeped out Nicholas. I’m not sure I want the sun to set here.

I later learned more about that creepy bear. His name is Hrammur (meaning “paw” in Icelandic). He’s 13 ft tall and originally from Greenland. He was featured in a sporting goods store that opened in Reykjavik in 1999 and went bankrupt in 2002. The bear then got stashed in a warehouse. The owner of Hotel Ranga, Friðrik Pálsson saw his photo, tracked down the warehouse where he was stashed, and pleaded with the owners to let the hotel have the bear. The bear didn’t fit the original hotel and a ceiling light had to be removed to get him in.

I guess knowing his name makes him a little less creepy. I approve of the bear-rescue efforts.

The waterfall day (onwards to Ranga)

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The next morning I was dragged up again at what I think was nearly sunrise.

I think it was nearly sunrise because it was pouring rain…so visibility wasn’t exactly there for me to tell much of anything.

One unwilling driver, one grumpy bear, and one hopeful photographer packed into a car and headed for Reynisfjara, the sunrise edition.

We parked at the beach, Pokin bundled up and went out —

and promptly came back. Not only was it rainy, but strong winds were blowing her backwards. Combine that with dangerous waves and even this crazy person found her limits.

So we sat in the car to see if weather conditions would improve. While sitting in the car I spent my time watching the wet sheep.

There, in the pouring rain, in windy conditions were the sheep, calmly munching away as though nothing was amiss. IT’S SO WET OUT THERE YOU CRAZY SHEEP!!

Due to the geographic isolation, the Icelandic sheep are considered one of the purest breeds in the world. They originate from the Northern European Short tailed stock of sheep, introduced to the country in the late 9th or 10th century by the vikings.

The fleece is apparently double coated, making them highly resistant to cold. There are apparently over 800,000 icelandic sheep to a population of ~390K Icelandic people.

I guess that makes them tolerant this dampness better? I don’t know. Give me hot cocoa by a toasty fire any day.

After I watched sheep for long enough, and after Pokin waited for long enough to know sunrise had most definitely already certainly happened, we drove back to the hotel to get ready for our day.

Today’s agenda? Waterfalls!

Wasn’t it wet enough already?

It was still raining a little when we set out, so we decided to first swing by to the Dyrhólaey Lighthouse because at least that was visible from the car. The rain was nice enough to stop by the time we got there, so we got out.

And immediately regretted it because it was so windy. I clung on to Nicholas tightly, I was that worried about being blown away.

Dyrhólaey Lighthouse marks the southernmost point in Iceland. The light station was first built in 1910, and the actual lighthouse built in 1927. The lighthouse was prefabricated in Sweden. Dyrhólaey stands for Door Hole Isle, named for this rock structure that sat below:

Nice peninsula. Nice lighthouse. Too cold! Back in the car.

Our next stop was Kvernufoss, which is located a short drive away from the more famous and touristy Skógafoss. Pokin picked this place because she thought there would be less crowds. There were, but it was made up for with more drones, which she shortly discovered from all the buzzing she heard.

I saw more sheep. Naturally.

The waterfall was wet and sprayed water everywhere. Naturally.

I helped out where I could, while doing my best to stay dry.

And was overall glad when we were done and hiking away from this waterfall.

Even though I knew it was unlikely, I still hoped Kvernufoss would be a one and done waterfall for the day.

“Next stop, Skógafoss,” announces Pokin. “It’s only a couple minutes away.”

Alas.

Vík and the sunset at Reynisdrangar

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By the time we got to Vík, my bud and I were exhausted. We’d gotten up for sunrise and then climbed around 3 different glaciers. Tonight we were staying at Hotel Kria, which is centrally located in the small town of Vík. I was getting ready to have a good dinner and tuck in for the day.

Pokin, however, decided it was time for sunset photos.

“It’s nice out,” she said. “Who knows when it’ll be nice out again.”

My bud and I groan. We weren’t winning this battle. In the car we go again!

Our sunset destination was Reynisdrangar, about a 15 minute drive west of Vík. Reynisdrangar was voted one of the best beaches in the world, and It was also one of filming locations for Game of Thrones (beach at Eastwatch by the sea.) It’s considered a very dangerous beach as amidst seemingly calm and predictable waves will come sudden powerful sneaker waves. In recent years, the waves have dragged several travellers out into the ocean where they drowned in the undertow. <gulp> The major landmarks are 3 basalt columns. Legend has it these columns were formed when three trolls unsuccessfully tried to pull a ship to shore when sunrise hit.

Not learning her lesson from this morning, Pokin was determined to get some photos in the surf break. “Further up the shore though,” she promises. Sigh.

Along the way we passed fields like this with sheep. I considered trying to ride one but given how wet it’d been, thought better of it.

Once we got to Reynisdrangar, Pokin discovered her plans would be foiled. A giant wedding photoshoot appeared to be taking place and people were everywhere, all over the basalt columns, on the beach, near the waves. It was work to sneak a person free view of the place. I didn’t care. Pokin minded. I reminded her she was a tourist too, then got out of the way of smack zone.

Eventually the other tourists left and she got a few shots in.

Which was about time! It’s cold and windy out here!

And those waves looked serious!

Driving to Vík and my glacier day

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Once Pokin washed up and dried off, we had a hearty breakfast and set off towards Vík.

Incidental note, the Foss Hotel Glacier Lagoon has an excellent breakfast. My bud and I approve.

On our way out, we stopped at the little waterfall beside the hotel.

“What’s the point,” said Nick. “There are so many better waterfalls.”

“I agree,” I said. I didn’t need to be near any waterfalls.

“It’s right here,” Pokin said. Let’s just see it.

So I guess we just saw it.

Vík is a town along the south coast of Iceland famous for their fine black sand beaches. It’s also considered the southernmost city in Iceland and also one of the rainest. We didn’t really know that when we decided to go there. They just happened to have rooms available when we were booking. So bonus.

First though, we had some glacier business to attend to.

I got word that Intersteller was filmed in one of the nearby glaciers, so my bud and I definitely had to go.

As warm up, we started at Fjallsárlón Glacier Lagoon. It’s the smaller cousin to Jökulsárlón, but not by much, and benefits from being way less crowded. You can’t see this lagoon from the road, but it’s only a short 10 minute walk to the lake Both lagoons are fed from the Vatnajökull ice cap, which is the largest icecap in volume in Europe. While we were there, we heard icebergs cracking off into the lake.

It happened to be raining, so I got a rainbow too.

Then it was to Svínafellsjökull – Interstellar!! To get ourselves in the mood, we loaded up the Intersteller sound track, data charges be darned!

The Svínafellsjökull glacier is a slightly longer walk from the parking lot. I didn’t care. Better anticipation!

I see it! Getting closer now! Can’t wait to get my paws on that ice!

The weather continued to stay overcast but I wasn’t going to let that deter me. Once we got to the base of the lagoon, we noticed a walking path towards the glaciers to the west of the lake, so we followed it in hopes of getting to the glacier.

I’m so excited!

It started to get really steep, so Pokin decided to stay put to grab photos instead.

My bud and I felt pretty sure footed though, so we continued onwards.

Unfortunately shortly after, we too, had to turn back too before we could step foot on the glacier as the trail just got too sketch even for us.

Maybe there was a different path there. Probably we should have booked a guided tour. Next time!

Sunrise at Breiðamerkursandur

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Way too early in the morning the next day, the alarm went off and I was thrown into a bag.

Off we went to Breiðamerkursandur, also known as Diamond Beach. Diamond Beach is located across from the Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon. As icebergs crack off the the Jökulsárlón glacier and float out into the ocean, some of the icebergs wash back up on shore resembling chunks of diamonds in the light.

Pokin was determined to take sunrise photos here. As soon as the car pulled to a stop she rushed out towards the incoming waves.

Crazy person.

My bud and I took the more cautious approach. We scouted out the lay of the land, first. We even went back to look at the lagoon —

— and only when I knew the timing of the waves did I venture out to the icebergs.

I helped out with some shots even.

My caution proved smart as Pokin and her camera got wiped out by a rogue wave as she was getting this shot.

Her filters, camera, and tripod went splat lens first into the sand, and Pokin fell on her butt the other direction. My bud and I just looked at each other with a knowing look. Yep, predictable.

Lucky for her the hotel was only 30 minutes away.

Smartly of me I think about these things.

Dry bear day for the win.

Towards the South Coast of Iceland

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After I got over the shock of going somewhere dark and wet and cold, I started to get a little excited for our trip.

We rented a 4-wheel drive SUV from Blue Car Rental so we could go on both regular and F roads. F roads are the more rugged roads around Iceland…basically anything that’s not in town or part of the ring road. They can get bumpy and muddy and so a 4WD is necessary. There are even more difficult roads, especially in the highlands that require a super Jeep or are closed in the winter. We arrived during a freak winter storm (of course we did), resulting in the early closure of some F roads already. At the rental car company they showed us a map of Iceland, and basically everything except the south of Iceland and west near Reykjavik were marked “no go.”

Luckily our first destination was the south coast of Iceland. We were headed to a hotel near the town of Hof. We were doing a straight shot drive down there “since the Fagradalsfjall volcano” isn’t erupting.”

Well almost a straight shot. First we stopped for cinnamon buns at Braud (because apparently they had the best cinnamon buns), and then Pokin needed to stop and get her camera checked out (because apparently it’s not a trip if Pokin doesn’t break her camera at least once.)

After those detours we got driving. My bud had just arrived from a redeye and Pokin picked out a 4.5 hour drive to our first destination. Neither my bud nor I was amused but that’s where we’re booked to sleep so that’s where we had to head.

The drive was scenic – or at least I think so. Both Pokin and I dozed off while my bud drove us. “You guys are the worst passengers to road trip with, you’re both always asleep,” Nicholas tells us.

We eventually got to a hotel situated right beside a waterfall. Both my bud and I took a liking to it immediately. Modern, clean, warm. We got a view facing out to the sea.

Of course we barely got settled before Pokin decided it was time to head out.

“It’s not raining, we should head to the lagoon for sunset,” she said.

By lagoon she meant the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon. “I need to scout it out for sunrise photos,” she added. Sunrise photos. I groan. I know the drill.

Jökulsárlón Glacier lagoon is one of many glacier lagoons in the area, but it’s by far the most popular and touristy — probably because it’s one of the most accessible lagoons, being situated right off the main highway and all. The lagoon is fed by the Breiðamerkurjökull glacier, and it’s also reported to be the deepest lake in Iceland. You can see seals swimming in the lagoon. We immediately saw some seals. That was cool. And a tonne of tourists. That was less cool.

Visiting the lagoon area can be divided into four quadrants. Coming from Rekyavik, the lagoon is on the left side, and the Diamond Beach (Breiðamerkursandur) on your right. The two sides are further divided by a river, so there’s the side before you cross the river and after. Most of the icebergs float onto the east side of the river, which is probably why the cafes and tourist shops all set up on the east side.

We pulled into the parking lot and Pokin made a mad dash for the shoreline, and joined basically every other photographer tourist in Iceland that had the same idea to line up here for sunset.

My bud and I? We actually checked out the area and walked around. We had fun watching all the tour busses pull out of the parking lot as the light got dimmer.

Eventually it was nearly dark.

“Perfect,” Pokin says. We now know where to go for sunrise photos.

Oh no.

Iceland…part 2

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Shortly after my Costa Rica escape, they wrapped me back up in a bearrito towel to suffer in darkness. This went on for months.

“The house is still under construction, you can’t come out”, is the thoroughly lame and totally unconvincing reason my bud gives me.

Then one day I heard the sounds of a luggage roller. I’m cautiously hopeful. “We going somewhere awesome?” I ask my bud. He doesn’t tell me anything. I get stuffed in a bag. Bag > bearrito, so I let it slide. Not even one smack.

Some number of hours later we arrive to our destination. Turns out Pokin and our friend Linda had already been here for some time.

And here turned out to be….Iceland???!! I look at my bud in confusion. “Don’t you remember the last time we went to Iceland“? I ask

My bud shrugged. “Pokin wanted to photograph an erupting volcano.”

“An erupting volcano?! Isn’t that how our last flight got delayed? Is there an erupting volcano in Iceland right now?”

“Well there was…it’s actually been quiet for something like 12 days now.” says Pokin.

I look outside. It looks dark. And damp. Oh boy.

At least I’m not in a bearrito towel.

Costa Rica

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Last year was rough. We were in lockdown. I was stuck in a bear shack with way too many bunnies.

This year didn’t start off much better. Not only was I stuck indoors without travel or gaming, but I spent most of my day wrapped up in a towel bear-rito. Something about making sure I stayed clean during construction. I’m sure this was my bud’s idea of torture.

Then one day my bud said we were going to go on a trip. We were headed to a town called Las Catalinas in Costa Rica, a newly built no-car, fully walkable master plan community that looked a bit like Italy. You fly directly to Libera airport instead of San Jose, and from there it’s about an hour drive to Las Catalinas. We were going to split a house with friends. To travel again!

Our house was called Casa Crepúsculo, which was perched on the side of the mountain. We got the upper bedroom. I promptly decided to check out the bed, before deciding I’d rather sleep on a pillow kingdom.

Since we arrived at night, it wasn’t until the next day I could really check out my surroundings. I got myself a comfy seat on the balcony and took stock.

Not too bad. I could get used to this.