The next day, we met up with our group to head towards Amomoxtli, Tepoztlan. This is a resort located about 1.5 hours south of Mexico City, which our host describes as one of their favourite resorts in Mexico. I approved.
The grounds were immaculate, and I had a relaxing few days here where my bud and Pokin just worked, and I chilled.
Then it was back to Mexico City, where I went to Teotihuacán, known as one of the most significant Mesoamerican Pyramid sites. The bus ride was long! I’m glad I went though. We had some pretty special experiences.
This week, we are off to Mexico City for a couples retreat organized by some business group Pokin is part of. Naturally, I came along too.
The recommended flight was an early morning flight requiring a 4:00AM wake up time. No way. So we decided to head out the night before and stay in the Sheraton Reforma.
Flight was pretty uneventful, other than Delta changing the flight time on us a few times leading up to the departure. Everything took off smoothly and next thing we know we’ve arrived at the terminal.
Just in time for a pretty long customs line.
Well our bags aren’t here either so I guess it’s no big deal. It’s a wait either way.
Eventually, or something like a couple hours later, we made it through customs, in time to hear that our friend’s flight was arriving.
We suggest meeting up to carpool —
Only to realize they had landed at a different terminal….
…and that in Mexico City the terminals are not at all connected. In fact they are something like a 10 minute drive apart with no traffic.
Which then become the other thing I learned. Mexico City has a lot of traffic. A lot.
So although we arrived at like 7pm. We eventually made it to our hotel at like 10pm.
Well we made it. And they greeted me with some candies. That’s cool.
So naturally the one time Pokin goes to see it without my bud is the time we get the most epic Aurora Borealis viewing. She was on a forum trip so my bud couldn’t go.
It’s Chinese New Year. There are a few times of the year Pokin loves to use as an excuse to have too much food, and apparently this is one of them. Even though none of us are year of the Dragon, dragons seem cool, and Pokin said we can all use some luck, so she went a little bit all out. I do love me some dragons, so I approved.
What started as a small celebration quickly got out of control. Lion dancers, you ask? Sure, why not? For a donation to the school, you can hire the local karate school to come perform. And despite the fact we had this on actual Chinese New Year, they were available! So my bud and Pokin invited way too many people, and we had them all over.
Technically my tag does say “Made in China”, and while I don’t consider this a large part of my identity it is sometimes nice to celebrate. And so celebrate we did!
SpaceX Starship launch 2 is happening, and Nicholas was lucky enough to have a friend invite him along to see it from the beaches of Boca Chica, TX. Which means I’m invited along. I snagged a VIP tag (don’t ask how). The only thing I’m disappointed about is that they didn’t have dedicated VIB tags.
The launch was amazing, we got to hear and feel starship successfully take off from the pad, and then witness an exciting RUD (Rapid Unscheduled Disassembly) a few minutes later. Couldn’t have been better! I love space! Life is good.
This whole week we stayed at an all-inclusive resort called Fives Beaches in Playa del Carmen, just south of Cancun. Pokin and Nick’s friends Cathey and Rob were getting married, so we all packed up and went there.
We arrived a day earlier than every else to settle in and work. For some crazy reason, Pokin booked a red eye. No one was impressed when they found out, especially because there were dinner plans hours before the red eye flight to the airport.
Well they got it all done, saw their friends, enjoyed some dinner, made it to the airport, and a bunch of hours and a transfer in Atlanta later, arrived in Cancun for a transfer to the resort.
Pokin did no research on the resort, and so she didn’t really know much of what to expect.
And one of the first things I discovered was that, this resort was infested with my archnemesis the Coatis. Remembering my time in Brazil, I figured it was time for a rematch. These paws are ready to smack. I glared at one as it walked by. I shook my paw at it. Get ready for payback!
Our room wasn’t ready so we had time to trek around the resort. I saw the beach. I saw the pay-per-use beds. I saw the pools.
It was hot and sweaty. I was hot and sweaty. The hotel wasn’t ready even after the promised check in time. It’s ok, I’m here all week. I will freshen up and bide my time on those Coatis.
Eventually we were able to check in at about 3:50pm (50 minutes past check in time.) We were in Villa 2 where Andres was our ambassador. I got settled in to prepare for my rematch.
And then I saw them.
First I saw a pair of eyes. Then many pairs of eyes.
A whole family of coatis, watching me from below the balcony. Staring up at me. Taunting me. Where’s my one-on-one rematch? Those coatis don’t play fair! There I was, prisoner in a resort for the week because the coatis are bullies.
Meanwhile Pokin and Nick spent their time working outside around the resorts, because their hotel room really didn’t have a desk and the coatis didn’t dare attack them. I guess this place wasn’t meant for remote work because they said for the whole week they only saw one other person with a laptop to work.
Towards the end of the week, they managed to get one excursion out, to see some Cenotes. I thought about sneaking out but then I learned what Cenotes were. Cenotes are a network underground chamber or cave which contains permanent water all throughout the Yucatan peninsula. There are numerous theories to how they formed, but geologically they are formed from limestone being eroded over time. Young cenotes start out as underground caves, and over time they become partially exposed, fully exposed, and some eventually run fully dry. Many of the cenotes are connected via water currents, making it possible to dive from one network to another. In fact, Yucatan is known to have some of the world’s longest underwater cave systems! My bud and some friends went to visit an open air cenote, and an underground cenote. They ziplined, my bud did backflips, they got nibbled on by fish. They’re weird.
Finally saturday Nov 11 arrived. The day of Rob and Cathey’s wedding. My bud’s friends decided to get married in a Cenote via a Mayan ceremony, which was about a 30 minute drive and then another 20 minute trek through the jungle. It was a mosquito feeding frenzy so I was glad to miss it, but it sounded like a very cool ritual with an emphasis on being kind to the earth.
Pokin being Pokin, was unimpressed with the wedding photographers, and decided to take over photography duties after the ceremony by making Cathey and Rob do a photoshoot, including a trash the dress portion where my bud and her made them get right into the waves. Glad they were happy to get wet. All the while I stayed in the hotel.
Because of the coatis. It’s so unfair.
Eventually Sunday came. Time to head home. With my bud as an escort, I ventured out for a last glimpse of the property. I see a coati dart by in the distance, but the gang seems to have mostly dissipated. I spot some big lizards. I glance down the jungle walk path but I don’t go in.
Maybe it would have been fine to go out more this week. Who knows. Anyway it’s time to go back home. And anyway there are no coatis there.
The sunrise in Santorini was so pretty, Pokin and Julia made everyone come back out for it. It was still scenic. While I grumbled at getting up I was happy to see the views.
Our flight to Athens wasn’t until 3pm, so Pokin wanted to hit up one more spot, which was the fishing village of Amoudi. Nowadays it’s mostly seafood restaurants, but this used to be the dock where supplies and trade landed. There’s a steep uneven flight of stairs connecting the two and that’s what we explored. Little did Pokin realize this still an active mule route and she was incredibly grossed out going down it.
Down we went to the village, past the village to the jumping rock where, in the right times of the year my bud could have gone cliff diving. Today we were in a hurry though and it was too cold for it. So we took a look, turned around, booked up back up the 250 steps.
Time to get ready for our transfer to the airport. First some ice cream.
We’ve been reminded every step of the way that most people in Oia survive off two jobs, and our driver was no exception. Along the way he told us he used to race cars, and is now a transport driver during tourist season and a construction worker in the off season. We learned a bit more about Greek culture before heading to the airport and heading to Athens. It was interesting to have to cross customs in Santorini again despite staying in the country.
On arrival in Athens we were picked up by a driver, and transported to The Dolli. My own seat this time!
The Dolli is a newly renovated hotel that actually opened at the beginning of the year. It used to be a private mansion, before being converted into a department store before becoming its current incarnation. It’s a small boutique hotel with only 46 rooms and permanent apartments. The main claim to fame is the rooftop pool deck with a view of the Acropolis.
The check in process was actually pretty nice. Instead of waiting in line, we were seated at any of a number of couches, and we were brought a welcome tray with 3 varieties of drinks and a platter of treats. I was hungry so I ate most of them before we were escorted to our rooms.
The rooms were opulent, though we weren’t baller enough to get a room with any great view, so we mostly kept the curtains shut as I was reminded the next building over is close.
My bud was starting to get sick so we just took it easy for the rest of the night, though Pokin did want to try some greek food. Just like in Oia, concierge only had one recommendation. Dophios. Again, apparently a great recommendation because they ended up wtih some of my bud’s and Pokin’s favourite dishes. After dinner we went back up to check the views.
The next morning my bud was definitely sick. He barely enjoyed the breakfast or the view.
And so for the second time this trip we went to look for a doctor. We found Dr. Alex Christopoulos, sent him a Whatsapp, and within 10 minutes of Pokin messaging, we had an appointment for my bud scheduled for 1pm. We grabbed breakfast and shortly after, headed off to see Dr. Christopoulos.
Lucky for me, I’ve been a pretty health bear and haven’t needed to see a doctor, but what I’ve witnessed of the US medical system hasn’t been that ground. Sounds like my bud and Pokin thought their Greece experience was pretty great. Dr. Christopoulos saw them pretty quickly, took an hour of time with them, took the time to find a pharmacy open on a sunday, and the whole visit cost 70 euros.
My bud got loaded up with drugs and it was back to the hotel.
At first my bud was just going to rest for the rest of the day, but Pokin had booked a private tour of the Acropolis and really wanted my bud to see at least a little of it.
A little of it turned out to be all of it and we walked around with our guide, Sotirios, who gave us stories behind Acropolis and the Parthenon. Too bad my bud was sick. He couldn’t ask the questions he would normally. But we’re all glad we went.
And with that, we wrapped our Greece trip. I hope my bud makes it on the flight ok given how congested he is now!
After seeing all of the cool photo spots around town, Julia decided she wanted to get sunrise photos, and Pokin decided she wanted to suck it up and go as well.
My bud decided he wanted sleep and I was roped in as an unwilling participant.
That said, once I was dragged out of bed and got to see the sun rise over Oia, I have to admit it was pretty worth it. The streets were waaay less crowded – mostly other crazy photographers and Instagram couples.
We got to all of the top photo spots and were able to grab some cool photos.
We couldn’t stay out too long though because Pokin had a food tour booked in Fira. It wasn’t originally supposed to be for today, but Pokin was way too sick to go on Tuesday, and the owner, Laura of Santorini Food tour was gracious enough to let her move it to Friday, but it meant we had to grab breakfast and get our way to Fira by 10:30AM. So a few more photos and it was time to dash back.
Breakfast!
The distance isn’t that great, but there are only 30 taxi drivers in Santorini and not a lot of Uber drivers, and it turns out there are anywhere up to 2-6 cruise ships that can bring thousands of passengers that dock In Fira every day.
Today looked to be a busy day. By breakfast time there were already 2 cruise ships in dock. We had to beat the Cruise ship rush to get an uber.
“Wait time 15 minutes. But maybe up to 40 minutes, “says the Uber app.
So we err on the side of caution and leave a litte bit earlier.
Fira is the main town in Santorini. And on arrival it was definitely a lot busier than Oia, and less picturesque. Fira is connected continuously two two other cities – Firostefani – (crown of Fira), and Imeregovigli. The food tour started in St George Square.
While we were waiting by the church, the bells started clanging in cacophonic waves. “Square” on the side of a caldera where space is precious is a generous descriptor, meaning we were right on top of the bells.
“How do people here handle this?” I wonder, something like 10 minutes into the bell ringing.
Turns out the church is only open a couple times a year for a religious ceremony and we won th lottery on being there on that day.
Knowing that made at least the procession more interesting.
At about 10:30, our guide, Dimi showed up. She’s one of several guides with the company, which was founded by a couple Laura, and Aristoeles who were passionate about travel and spreading their love of food. As the story goes, they ended up going on a food tour overseas quite by accident, and realizing there was no equivalent in Santorini, started this business to bring it to Santorini.
We started our first stop at a coffee shop, where we got to try a traditional Greek coffee. It turned out to be quite like Turkish coffee, because really the two countries are next to each other. “One of the things people don’t realize about Greece is how middle eastern we are, “Dimi explained. We sipped our Greek coffee as we had our spoonsweets (sweetened fruits), before making our way to the next stop – a local brewery.
Before that though, we stopped by the Three Bells where Dimi had a treat for us – easter pastries that were seasoned with Mastiha. Mastiha is a type of local pine that is used to make a liquor aperitif, as well as other sweets. This pastry is normally hard to find outside of the holiday season, but Dimi found a year round bakery and got some for us all to try.
Because it’s already end of season, we only had one type of beer to try, which was one more beer than I needed, but I was plenty fine for my bud. Here we got to try fava, some Santorini tomatoes, and some fried zucchini as we perched by the caldera.
The next stop was to olive oil tasting, where we started with a serving of “moonshine”, which tasted a lot like grappa.
We were reminded of how to do an olive oil tasting, and we tried the olive oil by itself as well as with some cheeses, tomatoes, and cured meats. We washed it down with more moonshine and went to the next stop.
We next stopped for some streetfood – souvlaki.
By now we were getting close to our next tour and Pokin started to get worried, but Dimi offered to call the tour company for us.
“You have to understand we all know one another. It’s a very small industry so it’s no problem” She calls and speaks to them.
“Don’t worry. They’ll wait for you.” And that was that!
We’re at the last stop, and we wrap up with donuts to finish up at the food tour.
Onwards to the wine tour.
Santorini is actually a really dry, windy climate. So it’s tough to survive as grape vines. To maximize their chances of survival, santorini grape vines are woven into a circular basket shape to protect the vines. They are allowed to be on a drip system for a couple years, and afterwards the irrigation has to be removed and the wines are watered via ocean mist.
The most popular type of wine is Vinsanto, made from grapes dried in the sun, and the most popular grape varietals are Athiri , Aidani, Assyrtiko and Mandelaria. We went to 3 different wineries to check out the wines, before ending up at sunset in the most scenic of the wineries. Was fine. Cocoa is better.
