Homeward bound

With our big hiking adventure done, we started making our way back to Managua.  For no good reason, we were getting up earlier again because the hotel owner had made the mistake of mentioning to Nicholas that a nicer ferry left at 7:30am every morning.  So we tried to take this 7:30am ferry.

The cab Nicholas had negotiated was waiting for us when we grudging got up.  At the ferry terminal, I turned around and got another look at
Volcán Concepción, which was again, still covered in clouds.

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Then it was time to board the ferry.

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Since this is the only ferry for basically everything that needs to be transported between Ometepe and the mainland, you found just about everything on the boat.  Tourists, backpackers, Canadians, even trucks full of bananas.

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This ferry WAS nicer than the other one.  They even served breakfast.  My bud didn’t want any and so I didn’t get any either.  Jerk.  I got out to the deck for another view of the volcano.

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Bye Concepción!  I’m glad I’m not wet and squished atop you!

Although the ferry was newer, newer didn’t make it go faster and the return trip was the same over an hour back to shore.  There, Nicholas again negotiated with a cab driver to take us back to Managua, but stopping to check out Granada on the way.  The nice taxi driver chatted with us the whole way to Managua.

“How’s the spanish feeling?” Nicholas asks Pokin when we got to Granada.

“Pretty good!  I feel like I can actually understand everything”

“Good!  I told the taxi driver you were learning spanish and to please speak slowly and with easy words”

Pokin looked crestfallen.  I’m just glad my bud can translate and I know my important words like cacao and caliente.

Granada is also along the shores of Lake Nicaragua, about 40 minutes away from Managua.  It is interesting because it’s still got its colourful colonial architecture.  It’s also where a lot of the expats have chosen to settle.  We asked our driver to let us stop for a lunch, where we got to walk around.

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I tried to go here for lunch but my bud opted for something more casual.

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And then it was for the final stretch back to Managua.

For our last night in Nicaragua, Nicholas found one of the nicer hotels in the city.  His idea was that we were celebrating now.  Yes!  Celebrating going back home!

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Hotel Contempo was, well, a contemporary hotel situated in what looked like a residential neighbourhood.  That’s the thing that’s so funny about Managua.  It doesn’t look like there are very clear districts or zones.  We seemed to be surrounded by giant private estates, all of which were fenced and guarded.  And the hotel was not located on a main street but rather a few blocks and turns off the main road smack inside this neighbourhood.  “Ok we’re eating in the hotel restaurant again,” decided Nicholas, and then we retired back to the room where everybody else made mention of the presence of hot water.

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Next morning, another traditional breakfast for Pokin, french toast for Nicholas.

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And time for the airport.

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I’m glad to be homeward bound.  This country was cool, but my bud didn’t whip out his laptop to play games even once!

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We have to talk a little more about work / game balance once we get home.

The big hike up an active volcano

The alarm went off at 4:30.  At least I think it did. I sort of remember getting rolled into a bag.  Pokin and Nick left the hotel room, and met the guide who was already waiting for us.  The group of us climbed wordlessly into a taxi for our short ride to the hiking trailhead.

The two most popular hikes up Volcan Concepcion are La Flor, near Moyogalpa, and La Sabana near Altagracia.  We did neither.  Instead, our hike seemed to start on the southeast corner of the active volcano.  Since it was 5am, it was still dark when we got started.  Still, our guide had eyes like a cat and he walked pretty confidently up the trail.  Pokin and my bud used flashlights.  About 5 minutes into the hike, our guide decided to make Pokin a walking stick.

The first part of the trail was pretty “level”, though there was definitely an incline through private property.  After trekking for about an hour, we reached the park perimeter hut (somebody’s farm) where we paid our entrance fee of $1.

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Here is where the real incline starts.  By now it became light enough for us to put away our flashlights.  We started making our way up.

Sunrise!  We’re on some serious slope.

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Up and up we went, 2 hours, 3 hours.

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Since it’s early, the cloud cover was still low, and probably about halfway up the volcano, we started heading into it.  Throughout this time, we’re on a 45 degree incline.  And that’s when things started to get dicey.

February is windy season.  Everywhere you go you can hear the winds howl.  Normally it’s just nice, but on a volcano, we really started feeling it whip is around.

And still we climbed.

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And then we noticed our clothes were damp.  No, it wasn’t raining.  It was just damp from the clouds.  Darnit, I didn’t sign up for a bath!  I am so wet.  This sucks.

Four hours.  Five hours.  We kept climbing.  Now we are going almost vertical.  There’s our guide.  Wind is about 100km/h (60mph).  That dot in the background is probably Pokin.  I can’t really tell, I can’t see anything and I’m wet.  I’m going back in my bag.

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At around the 5 hour mark, my bud and I made it to the summit and waited for everyone to make it up.  Pokin didn’t know, but my bud and I had big plans.   The guide made it up.  We waited.  Here’s Pokin still trying to climb up.

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And we waited.  The wind is howling furiously and all of us are getting blown around the top of the summit.  We waited.

Turns out Pokin wasn’t coming.  We couldn’t really see her, but my bud eventually found her huddled in a heap, clutching to some rocks, bawling her eyes out.  It was pretty steep.  And wet.  And cold.  We were all miserable.  But we knew Pokin would want to make it to the summit so my bud and the guide helped her up to the top, basically by hauling her up with her backpack strap.  We all made it.

We are also all wet and cold.  And the wind is still beating us in the face at 100km/h.  But here we are sitting on the edge, looking down into the crater of an ACTIVE VOLCANO.

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At this moment, my bud decided to enact THE PLAN.

“Hey Pokin, turn around” he says.  Pokin was still clutching to the side of the crater holding on for dear life as she’s still trying to regain her composure.  I got into position on his lap.

“I need you to turn around,” he says again.  At glacial speed, she finally does so.

“So I’d like to propose we forge an alliance here by the fires of Mount Doom with a ring.” (My bud’s a nerd. I only half approve.)

Pokin looks at my bud with non comprehension.  My bud gets on his knee.  Pokin doesn’t notice.  “Will you marry me?”

My bud produces a ring.  By the way, proposing on the side of an active volcano was something I thought I had definitely approved of… but that was before the wind and cold.  Oh well, it’s still awesome and I told my bud that if she said no he could at least throw the ring into the volcano like they did in Lord of the Rings.

The guide starts laughing.  (Earlier in the day, the guide kept asking if my bud and Pokin were married and my bud kept saying soon to which the guide jested that maybe we were planning on getting married on the mountain.)

However, Pokin doesn’t say a thing.

“Is that a maybe?” says my bud.

A cold Pokin finally answers, “After this hike? Yes it’s a maybe.”  “Ok good enough”, says my bud.  “Let me hold on to the ring for you as we climb back down.”

We “hurry” back down the hill.

Unfortunately going down the hill at a near vertical incline isn’t very quick.  It ends up taking as long going down as we took going up.  Pokin is on all fours right now inching her way down the volcano, so my bud decides to hold her backpack and hiking stick for her.

And a gust of wind comes along, blowing my bud down the volcano.

My bud loses his balance.  He catches himself with the walking stick.

The stick snaps in half.  My bud falls.  I fall.  We tumble.  Ouch.   I don’t like this.

Luckily, all our video gaming practice was good for my bud’s dexterity and he rolled down the hill like we do in our games.  My bud only scraped up his arms a little.

“You’re lucky,” says our guide “people have gotten way more hurt here.  Some have died.  And that’s why a guide is required on this mountain.”  We also later learn that the wind and incline means helicopter rescues are impossible.

We continue down the mountain.  Slowly.

At some point, Pokin finally defrosts enough to say yes.  We are all still totally soaked by clouds and still thoroughly miserable.  I’m on Pokin’s back now (bad idea) and she starts falling nonstop.  Owww.  This hurts.  She keeps falling on me.  Oww.

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The nice thing about our return trip is that we got to take a different route down.  This route had a scree hill that let you run down a third of the mountain.  My bud and our guide ran down it pretty fast.

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Pokin, on the other hand was too scared to do so.  So she sat on her butt and slid down.  Pictured in hand is a new walking stick, not the one that betrayed my bud.

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If it were just the bud, guide and I, we would have been down fairly fast, but eventually we made it down past the scree and back into the forest.

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You can see all the scree behind us!  Now that it’s finally back in warmer territory and as our pants are drying you can see Pokin is in better spirits.  She even had enough energy to demand a coke when we got back to the hut.

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We did a check on my bud.  He’s bloodied up, but should retain his gaming dexterity.  I breathe a sigh of relief.

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Eventually, about 10 hours after we made our start, we got back on the road.  THANK GOODNESS.  We survived.  I got sat on more times than I cared to be, but we all made it!

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And that was the story about the time we had an aventura on a volcano (elevation 5,282 ft,  1610m) so my bud could propose.

Onwards to Ometepe

After three nights in San Juan, we made our way towards the island of Ometepe, home to those two active volcanoes in the middle of Lake Nicaragua – Volcán Concepción and its sister, Volcán Maderas. Volcán Concepción is still active, having last erupted in 2010 while Maderas has never been active.  At 1600m tall, Volcán Concepción is the 2nd tallest mountain in all of Nicaragua just behind San Cristobal, and is known for its perfect cone shape.  Madereas, while shorter, is home to a laguna inside its crater.  It’s also where they grow coffee and cacao!!!!

From San Juan, it was a $25USD taxi ride to San Jorge, followed by a boat ride.

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I am NOT sure how I felt about getting on these boats.  They were…somewhat…rickety.  The fare was like $1USD a person, and they gave everyone a life vest that looked like it had first been run over by a bunch of trucks.  Given that this lake is home to bull sharks, I just hope this boat doesn’t fail and we end up in the lake.  On the positive front, we didn’t.

Our ferry  ride took about an hour, after which we headed into another taxi towards the eastern side of the island near Altagracia.  My bud mentioned something about being nervous because he never heard back from the hotel he was booking from, but we arrived to what looked like a picturesque banana plantation that opened up into clearing where a colonial compound sat.  And this compound had a sweet lake view.  Nice!  And they were expecting us!  Even better!

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This was our view right outside of the bedroom.

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My bud and I found a hammock and we settled in nicely.

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Evening came and we had to talk plans for the next day.  Nicholas had planned a surprise activity involving a guide who then showed up to give us a brief.

“Tomorrow will be strenuous.  We will be hiking up to the top of Volcán Concepción.   The hike will take between 8-10 hours.  Make sure you pack a lot of food, as well as 4L of water per person.  It will be cold and windy.  Make sure you bring a jacket.”

“Just how strenuous is strenous?  how windy?  I didn’t bring a jacket.   I wasn’t prepared for this” says Pokin.

“Pretty strenuous.  We start at 6am”

“I think we better start at 5,” says Pokin.  “Also, we didn’t bring food.”  She did not say that.  I’m not getting up at 5.  What do you mean we don’t have food?

“Sure, we’ll be here by 5am.  We can pick up a couple sandwiches for the each of you.”

“What did you sign us up for?” says Pokin to Nick.  He wisely says nothing.

I think it’s time to change the subject.  Oh and look dinner is here!  Because we are in a pretty remote little compound, we didn’t even think to look elsewhere for food.  There was a cook on the compound who made breakfast, lunch and dinner every day.  Breakfast was included, lunch was $6 and dinner $9.  Because Ometepe has rich volcanic soil and pesticides are expensive, a lot of foods are actually organic.  My bud tells me the food is delicious.  I’m just looking around wishing I knew what a cacao plant looked like.

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Well, with our early start, we’d better head to bed.  No gaming for this bear.