Of course the next morning Pokin wanted to get up for sunrise photos.
At least since it was October, sunrise was later and breakfast was already open.
They had a pretty good breakfast spread. Best one I’d seen in Iceland, in fact.
I actually enjoyed myself over breakfast, watching the sunrise.
A little while later, Anna and Adam joined my bud and Pokin for breakfast. Then they went into the Retreat Lagoon while I went back up to the room to chillax.
The Retreat Lagoon side is much more cozy, I’m told. The pools are nestled between chasms in the natural lava, and there are many more private nooks. For a while, my bud and Pokin had the waters all to themselves, before they were joined by one more person and then Anna and Adam. This is a much more secluded place to be. They said it was a nice juxtaposition to the main large lagoon.
There was one rude couple they said who disregarded the rules and walked around with a camera, but everyone else respected the rules.
After a quick dip, it was already time for checkout.
Too bad, I liked it here. I guess we’ll just have to come back.
My bud explained to me that, even though we were done with waterfalls, we’d be going somewhere very wet.
We were to spend the day with my bud’s sister Anna and her boyfriend Adam, and they had planned the day to be at the Blue Lagoon.
And since they booked a night there, we did too.
So here we are, going to The Retreat Spa at the Blue Lagoon for almost a day. I say almost a day because you don’t get to spend a full day there. You are only allowed to check in at 3pm and you have to check out by 11am the next day.
The origins of Blue Lagoon stemmed from 1976, when the Svartsengi geothermal plant was built. The plant needed a place to deposit its runoff, and decided the nearby 800+ year old lava field would suit. Instead of draining away though, the muddy runoff formed a large lagoon.
Some soul at some point in 1981 decided to try bathing in it, and discovered, oh! It helps with skin conditions! And behold, in 1992, the Blue Lagoon company was formed.
The Blue Lagoon today has 3 parts. The Blue Lagoon which is the large public lagoon that you can visit during the day, the Silica Hotel which features its own swimming area a little away from the Blue Lagoon, and then in 2014, they started work on the ultra luxury Retreat Spa.
The Retreat Spa was conceived by Sigríður Sigþórsdóttir founding partner of Basalt Architects and Design Group Italia. The designers apparently scoured the fields to find just the right spot to construct the retreat, and the whole construction process took over 3 years as they had to find the right fields with the right characteristics.
The Retreat Hotel at the Blue Lagoon
As you look around the retreat, you can see the full integration with the environment. The retreat was built right into and around the lava fields, and every lookout appears as though it’s a picture.
I was impressed. This is fit for me to stay at. In fact I want this for my bear home! Nicholas, take note!
On arrival, we were greeted at reception with a welcome drink. My bud opted for sparkling tea.
After a few minutes, we were presented with an agreement we had to read and sign. Among the terms were that there was no photography allowed in the Retreat Spa.
The Retreat Spa entrance. No photos beyond this door.
Once that was signed, we were given a tour of the retreat before being shown our rooms. Since most of the place is no photography allowed, well, I had no photos.
But here’s my room! It was pretty nice. I only wish I got a ground floor unit. Pokin was worried about privacy, but it turns out the waters in front of the suites are only for looks. Next time!
The bathroom areaBed, bar, and closetThe tub and lookout
Ahh, this is the life.
While I stayed behind to enjoy my suite, my bud and Pokin went out to explore the rest of the faciliites.
At 4pm, they served tea in the lounge. Bathrobe lounge attire encouraged.
The main lagoon can be accessed at the end of the Retreat Lagoon, and is only open till 8pm whereas the Retreat Lagoon was open until 10pm, so everyone decided to go into the Blue Lagoon first.
This was the entrance from the Retreat Lagoon into the main lagoon.
The Retreat entrance
My bud and the gang stayed out in the main lagoon through sunset.
While I enjoyed the sunset from the room.
They had 8pm reservations at the Lava Restaurant after which they meant to go into the Retreat Lagoon, but apparently everyone was too tired and went to sleep right after dinner.
Seljalandsfoss, AKA the most photographed waterfall in Iceland was our last stop. It means “selling the land of waterfalls.” This is where most southern Iceland tours make at a stop; it’s overall one of the most popular places in all of Iceland. Based on its positioning facing west behind a cliff, it’s also most beautiful viewed at sunset because that’s when the light hits the waterfalls. Most of the rest of the day, it’s behind shadows.
Naturally Pokin wanted to head there for sunset.
“You realize every single photographer in Iceland is going to have the same idea right?” Nicholas said.
“Yes,” Pokin answered. And that’s why we are going to go early to camp out a spot.
So, despite the sun setting at 6:55pm, we were there by a little after 5. My bud and I decided to wait in the car. Pokin hauled off with her gear.
A little while after, she came back with her gear, looking a lot damper.
“I don’t have a wide enough camera lens to capture the photos. I’m better off with my iPhone,” was the answer.
We all head back out together. My curiousity was piqued from this “most beautiful waterfall” claim. From here it looks ok.
The sun starts to fall as we get closer and the view gets better.
And of course it gets wetter.
The place wasn’t as busy as it could be as most of the tour busses have to leave before sunset, but there were a decent number of Instagrammers on site and photographers. I can only assume they are Instagrammers based on the props and poses.
At one point Nicholas says “you’re going to regret not having your camera here.” And they go back to get their camera. But the iPhone photo still won out in the end.
Here it is during the full sunset glow.
The cool thing about this waterfall is that you can walk all the way around it. I recommend the counterclockwise route so you are scrambling up slippery rocks instead of down. The cave behind the waterfall was formed by gradual erosion of rock from the waterfall spray. Makes sense, this waterfall sure sprays over the course of its 60m drop! The Seljalandsfoss flows from the Seljalandsá river which is fed by the Eyjafjallajökull glacier.
And with that, we’re done with waterfalling in Iceland this trip. Can’t say I’m sad, but this is a nice one to end with.
Pokin wasn’t done with waterfalls for the day. She next mapped us to Gljúfrafoss. Apparently it’s known as one of the wettest hikes in Iceland. You go through a canyon hiking basically right in the river.
“I’m definitely sitting this one out guys,” I say.
To my surprise, they readily agreed and left me in the car.
The trail starts out like this –
After which you get into a canyon and stay there.
And you get to hike right in the water.
For this waterfall.
My bud said he had fun scrambling. Glad he did!
And I’m just glad I got to stay in the car for this one.
Way too early in the morning the next day, the alarm went off and I was thrown into a bag.
Off we went to Breiðamerkursandur, also known as Diamond Beach. Diamond Beach is located across from the Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon. As icebergs crack off the the Jökulsárlón glacier and float out into the ocean, some of the icebergs wash back up on shore resembling chunks of diamonds in the light.
Pokin was determined to take sunrise photos here. As soon as the car pulled to a stop she rushed out towards the incoming waves.
Crazy person.
My bud and I took the more cautious approach. We scouted out the lay of the land, first. We even went back to look at the lagoon —
— and only when I knew the timing of the waves did I venture out to the icebergs.
I helped out with some shots even.
My caution proved smart as Pokin and her camera got wiped out by a rogue wave as she was getting this shot.
Her filters, camera, and tripod went splat lens first into the sand, and Pokin fell on her butt the other direction. My bud and I just looked at each other with a knowing look. Yep, predictable.
After I got over the shock of going somewhere dark and wet and cold, I started to get a little excited for our trip.
We rented a 4-wheel drive SUV from Blue Car Rental so we could go on both regular and F roads. F roads are the more rugged roads around Iceland…basically anything that’s not in town or part of the ring road. They can get bumpy and muddy and so a 4WD is necessary. There are even more difficult roads, especially in the highlands that require a super Jeep or are closed in the winter. We arrived during a freak winter storm (of course we did), resulting in the early closure of some F roads already. At the rental car company they showed us a map of Iceland, and basically everything except the south of Iceland and west near Reykjavik were marked “no go.”
Luckily our first destination was the south coast of Iceland. We were headed to a hotel near the town of Hof. We were doing a straight shot drive down there “since the Fagradalsfjall volcano” isn’t erupting.”
Well almost a straight shot. First we stopped for cinnamon buns at Braud (because apparently they had the best cinnamon buns), and then Pokin needed to stop and get her camera checked out (because apparently it’s not a trip if Pokin doesn’t break her camera at least once.)
After those detours we got driving. My bud had just arrived from a redeye and Pokin picked out a 4.5 hour drive to our first destination. Neither my bud nor I was amused but that’s where we’re booked to sleep so that’s where we had to head.
The drive was scenic – or at least I think so. Both Pokin and I dozed off while my bud drove us. “You guys are the worst passengers to road trip with, you’re both always asleep,” Nicholas tells us.
We eventually got to a hotel situated right beside a waterfall. Both my bud and I took a liking to it immediately. Modern, clean, warm. We got a view facing out to the sea.
Of course we barely got settled before Pokin decided it was time to head out.
“It’s not raining, we should head to the lagoon for sunset,” she said.
By lagoon she meant the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon. “I need to scout it out for sunrise photos,” she added. Sunrise photos. I groan. I know the drill.
Jökulsárlón Glacier lagoon is one of many glacier lagoons in the area, but it’s by far the most popular and touristy — probably because it’s one of the most accessible lagoons, being situated right off the main highway and all. The lagoon is fed by the Breiðamerkurjökull glacier, and it’s also reported to be the deepest lake in Iceland. You can see seals swimming in the lagoon. We immediately saw some seals. That was cool. And a tonne of tourists. That was less cool.
Visiting the lagoon area can be divided into four quadrants. Coming from Rekyavik, the lagoon is on the left side, and the Diamond Beach (Breiðamerkursandur) on your right. The two sides are further divided by a river, so there’s the side before you cross the river and after. Most of the icebergs float onto the east side of the river, which is probably why the cafes and tourist shops all set up on the east side.
We pulled into the parking lot and Pokin made a mad dash for the shoreline, and joined basically every other photographer tourist in Iceland that had the same idea to line up here for sunset.
My bud and I? We actually checked out the area and walked around. We had fun watching all the tour busses pull out of the parking lot as the light got dimmer.
Eventually it was nearly dark.
“Perfect,” Pokin says. We now know where to go for sunrise photos.
